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The Sperrgebiet has a fearful reputation. Translating from the German for ‘forbidden zone,’ it has been a no-go area of stunning desert landscapes for over a century. However, it is possible to visit the Sperrgebiet without having to dodge its armed guards. I’ll explain all below. Why visit the Sperrgebiet at all? For incredible landscapes, unique wildlife encounters and spooky ghost towns linked to an intriguing history…
The history of the Sperrgebiet
Located in Namibia’s south-west corner, the Sperrgebiet spans 10,000 square miles (26,000 square km).
It became the forbidden zone under Namibia’s German colonial government. And the similarly off-limits Diamond Area Number One during British and then South African rule.
During this time, the Sperrgebiet was a semi-official fiefdom of de Beers, the diamond conglomerate. Created as The Consolidated Diamond Mines, they decided who could enter the Sperrgebiet and who couldn’t. Permits were needed to enter (and often still are).
The decision to ban almost everyone from exploring this huge expanse of land was simply to protect its diamond fields. They were so productive that in the early days of the 1900s the precious stones could be picked up off the surface of the sand.
Since the early 2000s, access to the Sperrgebiet has been made easier – to an extent.
It is now possible to visit the Sperrgebiet. But visitors do not have free-reign over the entire area, and probably won’t until the diamond mines are completely exhausted.
Tsau ||Khaseb National Park
Tsau ||Khaseb National Park became the new name of the Sperrgebiet in 2004 (the || represents a click consonant). However the name of the Sperrgebiet continues to live on in the minds of many.
Nor does the official name change mean that the Sperrgebiet can be explored in the same way as the UK’s Lake District or US’s Yosemite National Park.
Visiting the Sperrgebiet is still limited to certain (diamond-free) areas. It’s also limited by a lack of accommodation options and the difficulty of getting there.
For more on when to visit, take a look at my guide to the best time to visit Namibia.
How to get to the Sperrgebiet
The usual gateway to the Sperrgebiet is coastal Lüderitz. A town with a distinctly Bavarian air, it’s ripe with German pastries and attractive art nouveau architecture. It also has plenty of options when it comes to accommodation.
Lüderitz technically lies within the Sperrgebiet, although reaching the town by road is easy from Keetmanshoop. You won’t face any checks when entering Lüderitz.
From here, it’s best to head out into the Sperrgebiet via one of the tour companies based in the town. The most common tours travel to Kolmanskop, a ghost town since the 1950s.
With the sands slowly swallowing this former diamond town, and brown hyena often spotted roaming the deserted streets, it’s a favourite with instagrammers from around the world.
Head out on an organized tour and all the relevant permits (costing around US$12) will be sorted for you. The light is better for photography in the mornings.
Less well known but equally enthralling is another ghost town – Pomona. Miners there retrieved a massive 200 kg of diamonds in just two years from 1912 to 1914, before it followed the fate of Kolmanskop.
Alternative ways of getting to the Sperrgebiet
Reaching the Sperrgebiet from Lüderitz will see you approach from the north. But it’s possible to explore its southern extent too, when coming from South Africa.
Take the little used single-lane border crossing over the Oranje River from South Africa’s Alexander Bay and you’ll find yourself in Oranjemund.
Itself sealed off from the general public until just a few years ago, Oranjemund life is still dominated by its main employer – the Namdeb diamond corporation.
However, since officially becoming a municipality in 2011, efforts have been made to diversify its economy, with tourism front and centre of this.
As a result, you’ll find a handful of sculptures and murals dotted about the town, alongside an excellent museum (open weekdays). There are an increasing number of places to stay too, although only a handful have any online presence.
For me, the main reason to visit Oranjemund was to encounter its oryx. These desert dwelling antelope roam Oranjemund’s grassy areas without any apparent care for the surrounding buildings, feeding off boundary hedges and resting in the shade of parked cars.
Getting back out of town either requires a return to South Africa, or a drive along the only road towards Rosh Pinah and then Aus.
The landscapes you’ll encounter along the way are stunning, and dotted with ancient examples of rock art. To find them, you’ll likely need a guide or a local!
Travelling to the Sperrgebiet
I think the Sperrgebiet’s history as a closed zone makes it even more attractive as a destination. A complete contrast to other areas of Namibia such as the Caprivi Strip, the Sperrgebiet’s mix of largely unspoilt vistas, cool ghost towns and wildlife means there are plenty of reasons to contemplate a visit as part of any Namibia or South Africa tour.
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