I’m pleased to say that the animated map of the planned Encircle Africa route, that has sat quietly and patiently on the main page of the blog, has now been updated to represent a slightly simplified version of my actual route over the 13 months I was away. You can… Continue reading
My legs aren’t too interested in Melilla’s hilliness. I take a direct route to what I had considered the fort, in fact Old Melilla, a series of 4 fortified precincts providing layer after layer of defence. Its not so much an old town as a giant castle rising and falling… Continue reading
With only 4 km between Tabarka and Algeria, I have to cross over to Europe. Algeria is one of those places that makes getting a visa very very hard. So I board the Carthage for Marseille, France. I nap until its more or less time for sunset at 6.15 that… Continue reading
I´m the last to board a minibus to Tunis so we leave straight away, past the wind turbines catching the coastal winds outside of El-Haouaria. We climb olive-speckled hills to Soliman, and then travel another 30 km or so to Tunis. Tunis quickly felt like a friend´s unwelcoming elder brother;… Continue reading
It was very easy to find transport to Sfax and then to Mahdia. We’re never next to the sea, there is always a thin strip of land home to knarled old olive trees. Mahdia medina is thriving, with colourful tourist nicknacks contrasting the whitewashed walls. I walk to fort Borj… Continue reading
I wake intermittently early morning from odd dreams, from fear I won’t be able to get to Sabratha for lack of knowledge and language. Its another accidental taxi hiring, given I don’t know the words for “bus” or “depot” or anything similar. The driver first good-naturedly mocked my copied down… Continue reading
It felt like I had ended up face to the fround at the second to last hurdle, being refused overland entry into Libya. The suspension of the coach to Cairo is soft, feeling like I was on a boat, so I only kept my eyes open for an hour or… Continue reading
Palpable relief at being able to move on finally. I’ve been in Egypt over 2 months. I’m desperately hoping for no more delays. I have 12 hours to waste until my coach from Cairo to Marsa Matrouh at 1.15am. Marsa Matrouh is a fitting planned last stop in Egypt, marking… Continue reading
One calendar year completed. I should have been home around 14 days ago. Whatever I do I seem unable to break from Cairo, and Egypt. This thought is echoed at the Libyan Embassy. “Wait, wait.” I’m told. “Inshallah, it will be ready tomorrow.” It would be easy to point out… Continue reading
Hating the pyramids I feel under siege in Cairo – I can’t enjoy talking to anyone for the expectation that they will later ask me to visit their “father’s” carpet shop or buy an Egyptian sim card from them. At the overpass I’m not entirely sure where to stand, and… Continue reading
