Is it safe to visit Kenya?

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Is it safe to visit Kenya and see its wildlife?

Read some travellers’ tales and you’d think Kenya is a warzone. The idea fits neatly into some – outdated and possibly deliberately misleading – portrayals of Africa. But it’s as far from the truth as saying all Americans are gun-totting mass-murderers. This begs the question, is it safe to visit Kenya?

Absolutely yes. Are there things to be aware of? Of course there are. Should this put the fear of god into you. Of course not. In all likelihood, you’ll be one of the two million international arrivals who visit the country without a problem each year. That said, it always pays to be aware of the risks. Which is where this guide comes in.

Staying safe in Kenya’s towns and cities

Staying safe on the streets of Nairobi

You’ve probably come to Kenya for its open spaces and safari opportunities. However, its cities have some worthwhile attractions, from the medieval cityscape of Mombasa to the museums of Nairobi.

I have strolled the streets of Mombasa, Malindi and central Nairobi (among many others) day after day without problem.

Have I been lucky? It’s possible. But I like to think it’s because I take the relevant precautions and try and stay aware of my surroundings.

There’s no denying that muggings and petty thefts are more common than in Europe. I generally feel safest on the most crowded streets. But at the same time, I avoid wearing a wrist watch or any form of jewellery.

I also keep my main stash of cash well away from that I use to buy snacks on the street.

Places to avoid when travelling in Kenya

The Likoni ferry to Mombasa is highlighted for its danger

You need to be extra vigilant after dark (which comes rapidly at around 6.30 pm in Nairobi). At that point in the day it’s time to grab a taxi.

You should also be careful in crowded places including markets and bus stations, whatever the time of day. That’s because this is where pickpockets ply their trade. Slum and informal settlement areas should also be avoided, and never visited independently.

Meanwhile, the Likoni ferry to Mombasa has such a bad reputation the driver of my matatu minibus ordered me to stay aboard. Everyone else was forced to get off for the quick crossing. This is a great demonstration of how most Kenyans will be keeping an eye on you for all the right reasons.

The threat from wildlife

lions, Nairobi National Park

A great many column inches are dedicated to terrible accounts of attacks by wildlife in Kenya. Most attacks – which are incredibly rare – are the case of being in the wrong place at the wrong time.

There is the occasional escape of lions from Nairobi National Park on the outskirts of the capital. But for the most part you’ll have to head into the country’s vast plains to see any significant numbers of animals.

Even here, the risk of attack from animals is very low. Don’t leave your vehicle unless you specifically know it’s safe to do so. You should also pay attention to any rules that may apply in camps. Some, for instance, require an armed escort when walking between tents, just in case.

The biggest risk probably comes from the water. It’s best to stay clear of any rivers, ponds or lakes, however tempting, since they’re probably home to crocs if not hippos too.

The country’s coastal shallows are generally safe, although deeper waters come with their own problems, as I’ll explain below.

Piracy and checkpoints in Kenya

Piracy is a risk to safety on Kenya's Indian Ocean coastline

The Indian Ocean waters off the coast of Kenya have been popular with private yacht owners for decades.

Sailors need to be aware of the risk of piracy against small craft, which stems from the continued strife that troubles neighbouring Somalia to the north.

Even if you only intend to travel by road, you should also be prepared for the chance of road blocks. There are no legal road blocks permitted in the country. Those manned by police are therefore also illegal.

Politeness will normally see you through. Do not attempt to bribe an officer. Should they request money or a fine for you, request a ‘receipt for cash bond’ in turn, and any nefarious demands will disappear.

Is it safe to drive in Kenya?

Driving and vehicle standards can be poor in Kenya

A much bigger issue with road travel is the country’s driving standards. Unfortunately, drivers often stay at the wheel for hours without a break, leading to dangerous slips of attention.

Vehicles are often badly maintained, and can lack working indicators or lights. You should avoid driving at night for this reason alone.

Matatu minibuses are also considered unsafe because of the risk of accidents, although I’ve spent many a ‘happy’ hour on these vehicles without issue.

The risk from terrorism in Kenya

Lamu is both safe and fascinating to visit

Sadly, terrorism is a fact of modern life everywhere in the world. Given its proximity to Somalia, Kenya has faced the brunt of terrorist attacks in recent years.

All the same, the chance of getting caught up in such an attack is vanishingly rare. Because of their secrecy, there is little you can do to avoid them.

The risk is much higher on Kenya’s eastern border, which forms the frontier with Somalia. The island escape of Lamu is considered safe to visit by European governments. But you should resist the temptation to visit Garissa County, bounded by the Tana River to the west.

So is it safe to visit Kenya?

The nature of the beast means this guide includes a lot of warnings. But this shouldn’t scare you out of making what could be the holiday of a lifetime. Use the same level of care as you would in any new place, and you’ll soon know the answer to ‘is it safe to visit Kenya’ for yourself.

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About Ian M Packham

Ian is a freelance travel writer, adventurer and after-dinner speaker. The author of two travelogues, he specialises in Africa and has spent a total of two years travelling around the continent, largely by locally-available transport.
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