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What you’ll find in this complete guide to travel in Africa
This guide is intended to become your complete Africa travel guide. Specifics aside it will work equally well for other parts of the world. I’ve divided it into the following easily digestable chunks, but if you think I’ve missed anything, please do let me know!
Is Africa safe to visit? · Why travel in Africa? · The best way to support conservation · Travelling to Africa post-Coronavirus · What to Expect from Travel in Africa During and After Covid-19 · What is Africa like to visit? · Best places to visit in Africa · Africa travel highlights · When is the best time to travel to Africa? · Planning a trip to Africa · How to plan a trip to Africa · How long to spend travelling in Africa? · Suggested Africa itineraries by region · Where to travel in North Africa · Where to travel in East Africa · Where to travel in southern Africa · Where to travel in West Africa · Cost of travelling in Africa · Daily budget for travelling in Africa · Do you tip in Africa? · Getting visas for travel in Africa · Getting visas while travelling in Africa · Africa travel packing list · Must-have items for African travel · Africa travel immunisation requirements · How to avoid malaria in Africa · Preventing mosquito bites in Africa · Medical and travel insurance for Africa · On the ground in Africa · How to travel to Africa by air · How to get to Africa by land and sea · How to take money to Africa · Taking cash to Africa · Can you use credit cards in Africa? · Making the most of your time while travelling in Africa · Accommodation in Africa · How to travel in Africa · Is public transport safe in Africa? · How to stay safe in Africa · Staying healthy in Africa · How to avoid food poisoning in Africa · How to travel sustainably in Africa · Why tourism matters · Travelling responsibly in Africa · What languages are spoken in Africa? · How to stay connected in Africa · How to deal with corruption and requests for bribes in Africa · General photography rules for Africa · Africa’s top foods and drinks to look out for · Gay rights in Africa · Is Africa safe for gay travellers? · Interacting with locals in Africa · Travelling in Africa with disabilities · Women travellers in Africa · Travelling with children · Solo travel in Africa · Staying up to date · Travel Africa your way ·
Is Africa safe to visit?
If you’re new to the continent, you might be asking why travel to Africa at all? Isn’t it dangerous to travel to Africa? Isn’t the whole place just war, famine and poverty? If this is you, you really need to check out some Africa travel websites (especially this one). You’ll soon see what you’re missing, from elephant encounters to epic beach escapes.
Dispelling such myths is one of the joys of my job as a travel writer specialising in African destinations. Africa does have – generally easy to avoid – trouble spots. As does every continent on Earth. And it does have issues with corruption and government overreach, like many other parts of the world too.
However, these factors are rarely an issue for tourists to Africa, and things are getting better every day. Most nations are peaceful fledgling democracies with rapidly growing economies and fast-improving infrastructures.
It’s the continent’s difficulties that fill the headlines. Delve a little deeper, and in Africa you’ll find some of the world’s top travel experiences.
Why travel in Africa?
As well as 145 (and counting) UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Africa, you’ll find the only remaining Wonder of the Ancient World – the Great Pyramid of Giza. To its west lies the ruins of Leptis Magna and Carthage, and the imperial cities of Morocco.
Turn south across the Atlas Mountains and legendary cities such as Timbuctoo await. Important trading posts since time immemorial, camel caravans wind through the sands of the Sahara Desert to the Atlantic Ocean. Here, west African ports act as reminders to the horror of the transatlantic slave trade.
Further south still, and the rainforests of central Africa provide vital habitats to the world’s last remaining populations of mandrill, chimpanzee, bonobo, gorilla, and forest elephant, before halting at the Great Rift Valley.
Then the vast plains of east Africa take over. Big Five encounters can be enjoye in some of the globe’s most famous national parks – Tsavo, Selous and the Serengeti among them. The latter is the place to witness the Great Wildebeest Migration alongside Kenya’s Maasai Mara.
Overlooking them are Africa’s highest peaks, Mounts Kilimanjaro and Kenya. Then come the exquisite beaches of the Indian Ocean, studded with islands and incredible diving opportunities.
They stretch all the way to southern Africa. Its wonders are as varied as Victoria Falls, Kruger National Park and Cape Town’s Table Mountain.
Why travel to Africa, indeed!
The best way to support conservation
Wonders aside, travelling to Africa is a great way to actively support conservation.
It costs not-for-profit organisation Africa Parks around £730 ($1000) to protect each square kilometre of land they are responsible for. It can cost double that for each square kilometre of unfenced land inhabited by lions.
Without visitors, the main source of this revenue would disappear. Governments already struggling with basic facilities would be unable to cover the shortfall.
Travelling to Africa post-Coronavirus
In February 2022 Botswana was the first country in Africa to remove all coronavirus restrictions. Almost all other countries followed in the next 12 months. This covid-19 regulations map has a country-by-country guide to what restrictions remain.
Anyone travelling to Africa during coronavirus would have understood the necessity of having excellent travel insurance.
Now we’ve returned to near-normal, travel insurance is just as important. It should cover you for medical treatment including evacuation home, as well as loss of baggage through theft.
What to Expect from Travel in Africa During and After Covid-19
Based on my 2022 travels, it’s mostly good news. Museums, attractions, tours and safaris are almost all back up and running.
Times and dates may have changed, and some outfits may have disappeared, but you’ll still get to do what you want to. A little more pre-planning that pre-covid is advised while tourist numbers remain relatively low. In other words, don’t turn up and expect a safari to be operating the next day.
Lodges and hotels are back welcoming guests as if nothing has ever happened. However, places aimed at the backpacker market seem to have faired badly, and many have been forced to close permanently due to economic circumstances. Guidebooks are therefore out of date, and are likely to remain so for some time.
Many places to stay (at least in southern Africa) don’t have a reception that’s manned constantly. They expect you to call them up either with an arrival time or to let them know you’re waiting outside.
If, like me, you don’t travel with a local SIM, the local tourist office can help you out.
Even small towns in southern Africa have tourist offices. Some are excellent, others are not. One told me there was no transport where I wanted to go when there was. They then sent me to a guesthouse that had shut down three years before – the only one in town.
Opening times vary, but a good gauge would be 8.30 am until mid-afternoon Monday to Friday. Many open in the morning on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays too.
Road transport in particular is back up and running as normal. Train services seem to have been seriously cut back, and airlines are still rebuilding their schedules.
Some domestic and international flights may therefore no longer operate. Some specific (usually lesser-used) border posts may also remain closed for the time being – most are open.
What is Africa like to visit?
If you’ve never travelled to Africa, it can be difficult to know what to expect. For one thing, Africa travel magazines and wildlife documentaries tend to focus on the continent’s wild spaces.
But Africa forms a complex web of landscapes which include some of the world’s largest cities (Cairo, Kinshasa, and Lagos). The continent is, after all, home to around 1.1 billion people.
There are tower blocks, and surfaced roads, and hospitals, and traffic jams, and electricity. And everything else – good and bad – which will remind you of home.
If you want a Mars Bar, you’ll find one. Lions don’t wander the streets of Nairobi (unless they’ve made a break from the city’s national park).
Perhaps the first thing to note though, as mentioned in my idiot’s guide to Africa, is that the continent is massive. It’s truly immense.
For the most part, Africa’s iconic animal species live in the continent’s interior, south of the Sahara Desert.
Few major national parks lie on the coast. This type of landscape is what you’ll see if you travel to Africa on safari.
By contrast, the majority of Africa’s people live on its coasts. This is where you’ll also find much of the continent’s colonial history. This includes the forts of Ghana on the Atlantic and a navigation pillar erected by Vasco da Gama on Kenya’s Indian Ocean coastline, by way of the ancient Roman colonies of North Africa.
Best places to visit in Africa
Africa is too large to tackle in one go, short of tackling the Cape to Cairo route when travelling to Africa on a gap year. You’ve hopefully got some Africa travel ideas from what I’ve already written in this guide.
One of my top Africa travel tips is to confine yourself to a single country, region, or theme. The decision on what part of Africa to visit will largely depend on what you want to see and do.
As just some examples, you could sail down the Nile exploring Egypt’s rich past, dedicate yourself to wildlife viewing in east Africa’s national parks, or discover the desert towns of the Sahara.
To help, there are plenty of guides out there. Try to use expert travel guides whether online or in print, with authors (like me) who have a clear knowledge of the continent.
There’s also plenty of inspiration from long form Africa travel books, not least my own words in completing the first solo and unassisted circumnavigation of the continent or returning to north Africa in the footsteps of my great uncle.
Africa travel highlights
The Nile valley is unmatched when it comes to the treasures of the ancient Egyptians.
Those wanting a traditional safari experience have the choice between east and southern Africa. Both also provide extraordinary beach getaways.
West Africa is ideal for anyone interested in cultural traditions and tribal bonds. It also harbours relics from the dark past of the transatlantic slave trade.
Linking them all is central Africa, a region of rainforest and isolated communities, lakes, rivers and endless birdwatching opportunities, and gorilla trekking expeditions.
What part of Africa is best to visit is therefore an impossible question to answer!
When is the best time to travel to Africa?
There are two ways to think about the best time to travel to Africa. The first is to find the best time to visit the region you’re interested in travelling to.
The best time usually corresponds with the best weather conditions for holidaying. But it may also include major regional events, such as the timings of the coolest festivals in Africa.
The downside is these are generally also the most popular periods of year, with peak hotel and flight costs.
The second is to ask the equivalent of ‘is October a good time to visit South Africa’. (You can find the answer to this question in my guide to the best time to visit South Africa.)
This is a good way of looking at possible destinations if you’re limited in the months you can travel by work or study. There’s really no point getting excited about December or January Africa travel destinations if you can only head off in August.
At the same time, watch out for movable cultural feasts, in particular the Muslim fasting month of Ramadan. Ramadan provides a fascinating insight into Africa’s Muslim communities.
But it often affects the opening times of museums and restaurants, and the availability of guides and transport too.
My thoughts on whether it’s okay to travel during Ramadan covers this in more detail.
Planning a trip to Africa
How to plan a trip to Africa
The easiest way to plan a trip to Africa is by booking one of the multitude of fully organised Africa travel packages available.
Make sure you choose a company with a good reputation. Any extra cost will be well worth it for a smooth-running holiday.
Guidebooks usually have recommendations of companies their writers have used themselves. I’m a big fan of Bradt guides. I think they cover Africa better than anyone else.
Often, they are the only English-language guides dedicated to a country in any case. Keep a special eye out for those written by Philip Briggs and Lizzie Williams. Their knowledge and level of detail are astounding.
The upside of any organised Africa travel itinerary is that it’s sure to include as many Africa travel bucket list destinations as possible. You can therefore be sure you’re not going to accidentally miss a major attraction or event.
The downside is the lack of freedom to explore how you might wish too.
Companies including Dragoman provide guide-led group tours on overland trucks that often take in multiple countries.
They can be a good option for those who might otherwise be fearful of travelling in Africa solo, but don’t have the budget for a private tour.
Travelling independently gives you more opportunity to go off path in Africa. It can often be cheaper too, which is why I first started travelling this way myself.
If you do travel independently in Africa, you’re still sure to gain a huge amount from your trip, wherever it may be and whatever you do.
At the same time, you’ll need to be a little more flexible with your plans then you might be elsewhere in the world.
Trains frequently run late, for instance, while crossing from one country to another can take anywhere from five minutes to six hours…
How long to spend travelling in Africa?
You could spend an entire lifetime travelling across Africa and still not tick off everything there is to experience.
For those of us with slightly less time on our hands, a trip to Africa will usually last between a couple of days (for a long weekend in Morocco) to two or three weeks.
In this sort of time, it’s more than possible to take in a country’s primary attractions. This is the case even if that country has significant sites of interest, including Egypt or South Africa.
If you’re planning a longer trip – perhaps you’re looking for Africa gap year travel ideas – then anywhere from two to three months will provide enough time to explore the regions of north, south, west or east Africa.
Suggested Africa itineraries by region
There are some relatively well-trodden Africa travel routes, taking in the magic of each of its regions. Below I outline Africa travel plans for each region in turn.
Their lengths run from one week to three months, to give you an indication of what’s possible in the timeframe.
Zoom in on the map to track my suggestions.
Where to travel in north Africa
In one week – Explore the hammams and cobblestone souks of Marrakesh in Morocco. Tackle the region’s highest peak in Mount Toubkal. Then enjoy a couple of nights on the Atlantic beaches around Essaouira.
In three weeks – Drift along the Nile in Egypt from Aswan to Cairo taking in Edfu and Luxor along the way. Then swap the father of African rivers for the coral reefs of the Red Sea around Hurghada.
In three months – Join the iron ore train for the 400 mile (650 km) journey from Nouadhibou to Zouérat in Mauritania. Team up with a camel caravan for the trek through the Sahara to Timbuctoo, where you can join a barge on the River Niger. At Mopti, head south to Burkina Faso and on to Niamey, capital of Niger.
Where to travel in east Africa
In one week – Go gorilla trekking in Uganda, Rwanda or eastern Democratic Republic of Congo. Follow this up by relaxing on the shores of Lake Kivu.
In three weeks – Spend a week diving on Zanzibar. Next head to mainland Tanzania for the trek to the summit of Africa’s highest peak. Finish by absorbing one of the finest wildlife spectacles on the planet at Serengeti National Park.
In three months – Travel south along the Indian Ocean coast from Lamu down to Kilwa via Mombasa and Dar es Salamm. Cross to Mafia Island for a touch of R&R. Then zigzag your way through the national parks and game reserves to culture-rich Burundi and Rwanda.
Where to travel in southern Africa
In one week – Explore South Africa’s apartheid-era history in kwaZula-Natal province. Spend a few days in Kruger National Park, then loop south into the national parks of eSwatini (Swaziland).
In three weeks – Fill your boots with the delights of Cape Town. Hit the Cape to Namibia overland route to Fish River Canyon and the ghost town of Kolmanskop. Divert westward before Windhoek for Swakopmund and the seals of Cape Cross. Finish with a couple of days at Etosha Pan.
In three months – Snorkel among the cichlid fishes of Lake Malawi at Cape Maclear. Travel via Lusaka to Victoria Falls. Head out on safari in Hwange National Park. Edge the Kalahari Desert through Botswana to Johannesburg, then catch a train to Cape Town.
Where to travel in west Africa
In one week – Spend the day in Ghana’s Kakum National Park. Explore the forts and castles of Cape Coast and Elmina. Then relax on the beaches of Half Assini.
In three weeks – Stand on the equator at Ilheu das Rohas, Sao Tome e Principe. Cross to Libreville, Gabon’s uber-cool capital. Visit the famed hospital at Lambarene. Then board the transgabonais railway line for a couple of days in Lopé National Park.
In three months – Explore the traditions of voodoo on Benin’s Atlantic coast. Paddle to Ganvie, and then to W National Park. Cross into Togo and Ghana to see the mud-built mosques of the Sahel. End your journey in bustling Abidjan.
Cost of travelling in Africa
Budgets for Africa travel can vary wildly. Costs are very different in different regions (and even neighbouring countries). Different travellers on the exact same itinerary can spend very different amounts too.
Your biggest daily costs in Africa are likely to be organised excursions or national park entrance fees. Next up will be accommodation and transportation costs. If you’re careful, food is not expensive in Africa. Steer clear of alcohol (and ice cream), and eat most of your meals in local establishments.
Africa’s top national parks are generally quite expensive to enter. Park fees sit in the tens of pounds even if you have your own vehicle. This is nothing compared to gorilla trekking. It will cost somewhere in the region of £1000 ($1400) for an hour with these sought-after creatures.
My guide to where to go on safari includes some ideas for Africa safari destinations on a budget.
While budgeting, you should remember to include the cost of the flights you need to get there and back. Returns to and from the same airport are almost always the cheapest option.
You’ll also have the expense of vaccinations and visas to cover. Visa costs can soon add up if you’re planning to travel through several African countries on one trip.
Some regions – particularly southern Africa – are better for visa-free travel than others – like west Africa.
Daily budget for travelling in Africa
To be relatively comfortable and not have to skimp on activities, I’d recommend a rough budget of £65 ($100) per day.
While it sounds a lot in black and white, it’s less than half what you’ll need to visit London or Paris. Visit fewer big national parks, and you can take at least a third off this daily budget.
If you’re wondering how to travel to Africa cheaply, the answer is probably to make slight savings on several things, rather than trying to avoid a cost full stop.
Staying in slightly cheaper accommodation each night soon adds up to a substantial saving.
Budget travellers to Africa might also want to avoid the most expensive destinations on the continent, such as Angola and Gabon.
Other ways to travel to Africa on a budget include using public transport, together with tours organised in country. This way of travelling is almost always cheaper than renting a vehicle. It will take longer to get from place to place though.
And while a campervan seems like a great way of combining transport with accommodation, these vehicles are rarely any use on the unsurfaced roads of national parks.
Do you tip in Africa?
Regardless of what locals may do, rightly or wrongly, visitors to Africa are expected to tip. This goes for anywhere you may sit down and eat, as well as for the services of guides and private drivers.
In cafés and restaurants, you should be looking to pay between 10-15% of the bill as a tip. It’s very rare for a gratuity to be already added. A similar amount should be given to drivers and guides on short trips of 2-3 hours. Having help for a full day you should look to give around $10.
These sums can add up, but realistically they are not going to seriously affect the daily accounts of even a budget traveller. Salaries in most of Africa are ridiculously low, and most staff rely on the additional income of tips to try and make ends meet.
If that means you only have one beer instead of two, so be it. If you can’t afford to cost tips into your budget, you can’t afford to travel to Africa at all.
On the plus side, service is generally excellent and far exceeds what I experience in the UK and still tip the similar amount as standard.
Getting visas for travel in Africa
When it comes to visas, Africa’s countries can be put into three camps. There are those nations that don’t require visitors to have a visa. Those where you can get a visa on arrival. And those where you must organise your visas before arriving into the country.
Exactly where you can travel without a visa in Africa will largely depend on the passport you hold. So-called ‘western’ nationals tend to have the easiest time of it.
Rules are normally fairly straightforward for nationals of neighbouring African countries too.
In short, you’re going to need to check for your exact circumstances during the planning stage of your trip to Africa.
Then check again three or four months before departure. If you can, go straight to the website of the embassy, high commission or consulate for your destination country. Don’t rely on second hand information.
Visa processing agencies also ensure their information is up to date, since requirements can change without warning. You can normally check out the requirements on their websites without having to actually use their services.
Getting visas while travelling in Africa
Obtaining a tourist visa is a relatively simple and painless procedure if heading to just a single territory. But it can soon become a headache if planning a multi-nation trip.
In these circumstances, I usually get my visas on the road. It will mean you hanging around a capital city (usually) for a few days while it’s processed. The longest I’ve ever waited while travelling was 72 hours.
The upside is that embassies in neighbouring countries rarely require a proof of funds or flight booking to grant a visa like they can in your home country. However, there is no guarantee they will issue tourist visas, though most will.
Most pre-arranged visas are valid for entry up to three months after they’ve been issued. They will give you anywhere between one and three months to travel around the country. Under no circumstances should you risk outstaying your visa.
Wikipedia has pages showing the countries around the world that fall into the three categories of visa issuing for British, EU, US, Canadian, Australian and New Zealand passport holders.
These pages seem to be roughly correctly. Again, it’s vital to check your own circumstances directly with embassies before making payments for holiday bookings.
Africa travel packing list
My top tip for any Africa travel list would be to pack light.
This is not necessarily easy given the range of Africa travel essentials. But aside from the mountains, most of Africa has a warm climate. You can leave bulky cold weather clothing at home.
Having started out lugging 20 kilos of stuff around the continent, I’ve now got it down to about ten kilos, in a single 30 litre backpack. My laptop, and at least half a dozen books, are included in this weight.
If you’re travelling for more than a week, your best option is to take three or four days’ worth of clothing and wash them regularly rather than taking clothing for each day of the trip.
I always choose a backpack over other forms of luggage, such as wheely suitcases, for travel in Africa. Pavements and roads can be rough, making wheels pointless.
You’ll find it much easier in the long run if you can carry your bags instead. This is also another reason to minimise their weight.
When it comes to a safari kit list, check out my guide to what to wear on safari.
It also includes general information on the sorts of items you should pack in your medical kit for Africa travel. Perhaps equally important is information on what not to take to Africa.
Must-have items for African travel
At least one pair of good, comfortable shoes is a must. They won’t take up any space in your bags if you’re wearing them.
A simple pair of flip flops is also useful to avoid the perils of communal shower room floors. These perils range from the risk of a verruca to inadvertently picking up a leach.
Microfibre-style travel towels are worth more than their weight in gold, since they weigh so little, but save so much space. Don’t rely on booked accommodation providing any towels.
I also travel with a descent padlock, which can be used for my backpack or to lock rooms. They often come with small, cheap and easily broken versions. Buying one with a combination saves you having to carry a key.
Make the code a memorable number, such as the last three digits of your passport number.
Battery-powered torches are also useful. Mains power can be disrupted, hotels have limited generator power, and streets can be unlit.
Africa travel immunisation requirements
Read any book about travellers’ health, and you’ll likely never want to leave the house again, let alone your home country.
When it comes to staying healthy in Africa, preparation is all important. You should speak to a doctor or other medical practitioner at least three months before your departure date.
This will give them enough time to make sure your vaccination record is up to date, and give you any shots required for Africa travel specifically.
You’ll want to be up to date with vaccines you’ll be given as a matter of course in your home country (whether you’re travelling or not). These include protection against typhoid, tetanus, diphtheria, polio, tuberculosis (TB), meningitis, and hepatitis A.
To travel to Africa, you’ll probably also be recommended the hepatitis B vaccination. Many doctors also suggest immunisation against Japanese encephalitis (present in Africa despite the name) and rabies.
The only vaccination you may need as Africa travel requirements to enter a country in Africa is for yellow fever. Many countries require you to carry proof of vaccination in the form of a (usually) yellow book.
You’ll need this if coming from a country where yellow fever is permanently present.
Of course, even if it isn’t an entry requirement, it’s best to get the vaccination if recommended by a medical professional.
Roughly speaking, yellow fever Africa travel vaccinations are recommended for any mainland destination within Africa’s tropical zone, excluding Eritrea, Somalia, Tanzania, Rwanda, Zambia and Malawi.
How to avoid malaria in Africa
In addition to the immunisations listed above, most of tropical and sub-tropical Africa (including some areas of South Africa) will require you to take protection against malaria.
There’s no immunisation against the disease, but plenty of prophylactic (preventative) drugs.
The most common prescribed for tourists to Africa is Malarone (Malanil), a combination of atovaquone and proguanil.
Taken as a daily oral pill, it is the gold standard medication at present, since it is active against chloroquine-resistant forms of the disease. (Chloroquine being a drug that was used for decades as a preventative).
Lariam (Mefloquine) is now rarely prescribed because of its potential side effects. In an emergency, it is the easiest to find in pharmacies in Africa itself.
Doxycycline (Vibramycin-D) is also unlikely to be prescribed. It can lead to the skin becoming extra sensitive to light and easily burning. It is not recommended for children, as it can permanently discolour teeth.
The best-known symptom of malaria is fever. However, other symptoms to look out for include muscle aches, headaches, vomiting, and diarrhoea. It can take anywhere between seven days and one year for symptoms to appear.
Do not assume that it cannot be malaria because you have been taking preventative treatments. If you get any of these symptoms you should visit a pharmacy or doctor. A simple blood test will confirm whether or not it’s malaria.
If you have returned home, inform a medical professional that you have been to a country where malaria is present.
Preventing mosquito bites in Africa
It’s vital you do everything you can to prevent mosquito bites. This means covering up bare skin between dusk and dawn when mosquitos are most active.
You can do this with clothes, or with a mosquito net. Also use a tropical-strength insect repellent containing at least 50% DEET.
Always take your own net, which are cheap to get (at around £20 or $30) in camping and travel stores. Rooms don’t always contain them, and if they do, they can be in poor condition.
Mosquitoes not only transmit malaria, a fatal disease endemic in most of Africa, but also other diseases such as dengue fever.
They are bad fliers, so tend to hang around at ankle level. Take particular care of your feet when seated. Try and sit in a breeze, whether natural or artificial.
From my experience, badly maintained air conditioning units are an excellent source of mosquitoes. I therefore avoid using them at all costs. Instead, plump for a room with a fan, which will also reduce the price of a night’s stay.
Medical and travel insurance for Africa
Travel insurance for Africa is a must have, and needs to include medical cover. For most journeys, a standard policy should be fine.
But you should ensure it includes medical protection of at last one million pounds ($1.5m) and covers medical evacuation.
Those on gap year trips in Africa will need a specialist policy. Most standard single trip or annual cover policies have a maximum time abroad on any one trip of 30-49 days.
Also be aware that visiting any nation that your home government strictly advices against or blacklists is likely to invalid your policy. This is the case even if you require assistance elsewhere on your trip.
For Africa, this means travel to Somalia (including Somaliland) is off limits to most.
Make sure you note down the emergency contact number of your insurance company, and the nearest embassy for your home country.
On the ground in Africa
How to travel to Africa by air
Most international visitors get to Africa by plane. Connections are generally good with Europe and North America, as well with the rest of the world via hub airports in the Middle East.
Incredibly, after 60 years of independence (for most African nations), flight routes continue to follow colonial paths. Former British colonies are therefore normally easier to reach from the UK, French-speaking nations from Paris, and so on.
Airlines including Royal Air Maroc and Ethiopian Airlines (the oldest and one of the safest on the continent) are slowly breaking this chain with their hubs at Casablanca and Addis Ababa, respectively.
Johannesburg also has great air connectivity, and is southern Africa’s main hub airport. Air Egypt is trying (not very successfully) to compete with Royal Air Maroc, but out of Cairo.
It’s common to check out flight prices before actually booking. Websites use cookies to track whether you come back to the same flight again. If you do, the price will probably have jumped.
You can avoid this by using the private or incognito window function either when planning or when making the booking.
I helped a friend save £100 ($150) by telling her this information when she was looking for a flight from London to New Delhi.
How to get to Africa by land and sea
Alternatives to air travel include crossing overland from the Middle East via Egypt’s Sinai Peninsula. There are also ferries linking France and Spain with north Africa.
The shortest journey connects Algeciras on the opposite side of Gibraltar Bay with Tangier. Vessels also depart for the Spanish enclave of Ceuta on Morocco’s north coast.
Another Spanish enclave, Melilla, and Nador in Morocco (forming two sides of the same port) have links with Almeria, Malaga, Motril (all in Spain) and Sete in France.
Ferries cross the Mediterranean for Oran and Algiers (Algeria), and Tunis (Tunisia) from various ports in France.
Should you not like the idea of the ferry, you can also check out the cruise routes that either sail to Africa from the UK, Europe or the US, and do it in style!
How to take money to Africa
What do you do about money in Africa? It’s probably the question I get asked the most. I’ll start with what you shouldn’t use – travellers’ cheques.
Once an essential for any trip to Africa, travellers’ cheques have become very difficult to exchange. The number of banks doing so are falling year on year.
It’s also a slow process which requires you to have the payment receipt from when you bought the cheques, as well as your passport.
If not travellers’ cheques, what? Money transfer services – of which Western Union is the most famous – have similar difficulties. They also take a chunk of money as a payment (typically 1%).
Plus, you’ll need someone at home to have access to your bank accounts. In theory, you could wire yourself the money via their websites. Money transfer is best used as a useful fallback option.
Taking cash to Africa
Cash is the easiest way to take money to Africa, although there are obvious dangers in taking large amounts.
It’s often not possible to get currencies for African countries before leaving home. Most currency exchanges will be limited to Moroccan dinar, Egyptian pounds, and South African rand.
The rand is also legal tender in Namibia, eSwatini and Lesotho, making it useful for trips in southern Africa.
Elsewhere, the best currencies to take are the US dollar, followed by the euro. Recognised by everyone, as hard currencies they will give you the best bank rates.
In countries such as Zimbabwe there can be shortages of cash, so it’s always best to check before travelling. When I visited in 2022 there was no issue withdrawing US dollars in big cities, but it’s not always so easy.
Better rates can normally be had on the black market, although it’s very much buyer beware. Those exchanging money in this way tend to linger around the main banks in a town.
Go prepared – have a print out or a snap on your phone detailing the latest exchange rates. Count the money carefully before handing over your hard-earned currency.
Avoid using exchange counters at airports, which have terrible rates. If you must use them, exchange just enough money to get you to your first port of call.
In many parts of Africa, US dollars can be used to pay for larger purchases such as hotel stays. Don’t expect anyone to have the correct change if you go down this route.
Never leave cash in your hold luggage, as it can be seen on airport security machines.
Can you use credit cards in Africa?
A safer way to travel with significant funds is with a pre-paid travel money card, debit or credit card. You can then withdraw money from ATMs. ATMs now exist in towns and cities of significant size.
Look out for banks you recognise (such as Barclays). Other banks I’ve used without trouble include Standard Chartered, Zenith, First National Bank (FNB) and Attijariwafa Bank.
Most accept international cards, but you should check for the presence of ATMs before departure. Sudan, for instance, has no international banking facilities at all, although this is likely to change soon because of the change in government.
Historically, Visa has been the best card type to take. Using Mastercard is not the problem it once was, especially in southern Africa. American Express cards are NOT widely accepted.
Beyond major transport offices and top-end hotels, you’re not likely to be able to pay for things by either debit or credit card.
There are usually fees attached, although some banks offer fee-free cards for foreign purchases. Make sure you pay in the local currency to avoid the fees.
For a charge (usually a fixed fee and an exchange rate fee) you can withdraw cash using a debit card as you would at home. It’s safest to use ATMs (guichet automatique in French) inside bank branches.
Many are in small cupboard-like spaces. Most are protected by an armed guard.
It’s best practice to inform your bank of where you are travelling, so they can look out for suspicious activity.
Making the most of your time while travelling in Africa
There are a few tricks to maximise your time in Africa at no (or little) extra cost. Opting to depart on an evening flight home, instead of a morning one, gives you an extra few hours’ holiday time.
Opting for a layover when flying via a hub airport is a way of maximising your experiences by tagging on an extra destination while breaking up a long flight.
Take a layover in Johannesburg or Casablanca and it’s possible to discover the cities. Both countries permit most tourists entry without need for a visa. Layovers to explore the Pyramids of Giza on the outskirts of Cairo are more complex for this reason.
Bear in mind that at least one study has shown that direct non-stop flights are better for the environment. They emit significantly less carbon dioxide, a greenhouse gas contributing to climate change. That’s because most emissions are burnt on take off and landing.
Night trains are a great way to travel, and save on accommodation costs at the same time. The downside is that it’s almost impossible to get a full uninterrupted night’s sleep. They are also few and far between in Africa.
This very handy website (which I have no affiliation to at all, I just like it) shows the routes of all Africa’s night trains.
Accommodation in Africa
Africa is perhaps the easiest place on Earth to find accommodation. If you’re not picky, even the smallest town or village will have an option for those passing through.
On the other hand, the range of accommodation options available can be quite limited. Hotel and motel stays are easiest to find. Those in the most popular tourist destinations have a premium when it comes to prices.
Airbnb and similar sites are making steady in-roads in Africa’s most popular tourist sites too. However, many locally run places don’t have a presence on the internet.
A failed search doesn’t mean there’s nowhere to stay. This is where a good guidebook, tourist office, or a helpful local can come in handy.
Catholic missions offer clean, basic rooms in secure surroundings. You don’t have to be catholic or religious to stay in them.
Self-catering places with a kitchenette and living room are a budget-friendly choice in much of southern Africa. They cost as little as £20 ($28) per night.
There are few organised campsites. You’ll find most in southern Africa. It’s not recommended to wild camp for safety reasons (and not because of the risk of animal attacks).
In remote villages, it’s best to seek out the chief’s permission, even if camping on apparently free ground. Often a small sum of money will be expected in exchange for permission. Some food and security might be thrown in.
How to travel in Africa
Most transportation in Africa is road-based. Travel within African cities gives you the choice of motorbike taxis, private taxis, shared taxis, trams, buses, minibuses, light rail and hop-on hop-off sightseeing buses.
The more organised forms with set routes, such as trams, are easiest to use. Bus routes, and even bus numbers, can be hard to fathom without help.
Private taxis are the safest mode of transport, and should always be opted for after dark. They do come at a price. Bargaining is de rigueur. Make sure to do this before you set off.
Renting a car will give you the greatest flexibility for travelling Africa overland, but comes with their own issues. Where to park them securely and how to navigate unknown cities are just two.
To rent a vehicle you’ll generally need to be over 25. You may also need an international driving permit (a document that’s simple to obtain from your home country). More on international driving permits can be found here.
Those travelling Africa by car normally opt for a 4×4, largely because that’s what people see on TV. But Africa travel by 4×4 isn’t a must.
Plenty of people have demonstrated that it’s possible to travel through Africa north to south in nothing better than an old Mercedes saloon or even a Citroen 2CV.
Is public transport safe in Africa?
Long distance coaches connect up major cities. They often depart from out of the way bus depots (gare routiere in French) requiring a taxi to reach.
Tickets can usually be purchased immediately before travel. Popular routes often sell out in the days ahead of departure. Most departures are in the early mornings.
Train lines are relatively sparse by European standards, though travelling in Africa by train is getting easier as routes receive investment to bring them up to modern standards.
Lines tend to connect the coast with cities in the interior. Suburban commuter lines in South Africa (except the Gautrain) are not considered safe for visitors to use.
Seat61 has excellent guidelines and timetable information for travelling in Africa by train.
Ferry services in sub-Saharan Africa are risky. Boats are often over capacity, poorly maintained, and lacking emergency equipment such as life jackets.
Cycling in Africa is possible, although most road users will not give adequate space for cyclists. Under no circumstances should you cycle after dark.
Maps.me is an offline mapping phone app I’ve used for years to get around and work out where I am. Just remember to download the maps you’re going to need before leaving home.
I also keep a compass in my pocket, which I find useful for orientating myself on busy city streets.
How to stay safe in Africa
Forget those Africa travel horror stories. The reason they make it into the newspapers is because they are a rare occurrence.
The same stories can be told for anywhere in the world, and aren’t representative of reality for 99.99% of visitors to the continent.
Africa travel safety can be divided into four main areas: safety when travelling in Africa, safety on Africa’s city streets, the threat from wild animals in Africa, and the danger of disease in Africa. I take each in turn in asking is Africa safe to visit?
Generally speaking, safaris are incredibly safe, from both human and animal threats. The risk is slightly higher in towns and cities, with capitals normally having the highest crime rates.
There are always risks, but that doesn’t mean that Africa is dangerous for tourists. Take the same precautions you would at home, alongside those I outline in the above link, and you’re more than likely to wonder why you ever asked is it safe to travel to Africa.
As always, a little bit of pre-trip research is important in determining if it is dangerous to travel to Africa. There may be circumstances that increase the risk for you, which do not affect others.
The best source of trustworthy information are home governments. The most accurate information tends to come from the government of the former colonial ruler (if there is one).
For instance, the UK will usually have the best information on safety in Kenya. The French Ministry for European and Foreign Affairs will normally have the best travel advice for Francophone countries like Djibouti, albeit in French.
These are the sites to visit for citizens of the UK, Ireland, US, Canada, Australia, and New Zealand. You don’t need to be a citizen or passport holder from any of these nations to read their advice.
Staying healthy in Africa
You certainly don’t want to ruin what’s sure to become the trip of a lifetime by becoming ill in Africa.
Avoid dehydration and the possibility of sunstroke by drinking plenty of non-alcoholic drinks and staying out of the sun in the middle hours of the day.
Use sunscreen with a high SPF figure of 50+, which will protect the skin for 50 minutes. Wear a hat to shade your face and neck, and sunglasses to protect your eyes.
Wash your hands regularly with soap and clean water, for at least 20 seconds. If neither are available you can use a cleansing gel instead which contains at least 60% alcohol by volume (v/v).
Get into the habit of avoiding touching your eyes, nose, mouth and other sensitive parts of your body.
At altitude, either when summiting mountains or in high-altitude capitals like Nairobi, staying hydrated is important. For the first couple of days, you should avoid overexerting yourself.
Altitude sickness is a serious illness which can lead to death. Symptoms include headaches. You should stop climbing and descend quickly.
How to avoid food poisoning in Africa
Food is perhaps the trickiest area for staying healthy in Africa since you may not be preparing it yourself. It’s recommended you stay clear of ice in drinks and homemade ice creams.
You should be suspicious of any food that isn’t piping hot, peelable, or washed. Stay away from buffet tables.
Foods such as salads should be washed in drinking-quality water or not eaten. Prawns are another tasty dish that are sadly best avoided because of the way they feed.
It’s always best to purify water that doesn’t come from a sealed bottle. I’ve never had a problem drinking from the 500 ml sachets or packets of water available on the street.
There are various ways to purify water. Adding iodide drops or chlorine tablets kills parasites. There are also a number of barrier methods that pass the water through a fine filter.
The most famous is probably Water To Go bottles. I find the inability to pour makes tasks like brushing teeth both messy and difficult.
How to travel sustainably in Africa
There’s no hiding the fact that for most of us Africa is several thousand miles away, and that carbon-heavy flights are the only realistic way of getting there.
Green travel in Africa is still in its infancy. But that doesn’t mean you can’t play your part. For instance, you can travel in the most eco-friendly way. This means limiting flights to those absolutely necessary, and flying with the greenest airlines.
New planes emit about a third less carbon dioxide than older models. Budget airlines are normally the most efficient, since they can’t afford to waste expensive aviation fuel.
Never fly anything but economy class – the less space you’re using, the less fuel you’re burning and the better your carbon footprint.
Another way to do this is spend as long as possible at your destination. One two week trip can halve your transport emissions compared to two one week trips.
Trains are the most ecologically friendly way of getting around Africa. Aging ferries can be worse than modern aircraft.
Why tourism matters
The jury’s out on whether carbon offsetting schemes do anything more than make us feel better. But stopping all tourist flights to Africa would have unintended consequences of their own. It’s tourist money that funds national parks and helps prevent poaching.
Visiting the continent’s national parks is therefore inherently ecotourism in Africa in action. Most camps are carefully positioned and aware of their responsibility to the natural world. Put simply, if they damage it, tourists will stop coming.
The tourist industry also creates a large number of well-paying jobs, stimulating local economies and contributing significant amounts to national budgets through taxation.
Tourism provides 14.5% of Namibia’s GDP for instance. This is more than its mining and manufacturing sectors. Roughly 20% of all jobs in the country are currently dependent on tourism.
Travelling responsibly in Africa
Ultimately, travel in Africa needs to be sustainable not just for the planet, but for the people and animals who live there, as well as the environments they inhabit. Respecting this while travelling is what responsible travel is all about.
Responsible travel in Africa seeks to mitigate against a tourist’s impact on the communities they travel through. Buying, eating, and staying local will mean your money stays within the community.
Don’t waste water when washing. Try and limit your use of plastics. They are unlikely to be recycled, while glass bottles will be returned to the manufacturers and refilled.
One of the main ways you can do this is to use a refillable water bottle, rather than continually purchasing water in plastic bottles.
What languages are spoken in Africa?
Even if you’re a linguist par excellence, you’ll never be able to pick up each of Africa’s estimated 2,000 different languages. That’s almost a third of the world total.
Among them, English, French, Portuguese and Arabic are widely spoken. Which one of these international languages is spoken will largely depend on a nation’s colonial history.
A handful of Ethiopians and Eritreans still speak Italian, though German speakers are very thin on the ground anywhere but Namibia. Arabic is mostly spoken in north Africa.
I’ve found phrasebooks for these languages useful. But far more helpful are locals, who will go out of their way to ensure you’re able to communicate successfully with them.
If all else fails, pointing can work well. It’s now possible to buy pointing dictionaries filled with useful images to point at.
How to stay connected in Africa
Mobile phones had changed the face of Africa even before the advent of the smartphone. Kenya’s M-pesa led the way in transferring money by phone. The creation of the mobile network also helped avoid the expense of building up landline networks.
Swapping your home SIM card for a local one is almost always worth the effort to avoid expensive phone bills if you intend to use your phone for calls or data. Credit is available everywhere from street hawkers. It’s normally called ‘airtime’.
Alternatively, several companies provide travel SIMs which link with local phone networks, including some in African countries.
I have an MTX SIM, although their coverage in Africa is somewhat slim. There may be better companies out there I’m yet to discover.
Almost everyone in Africa has access to a mobile phone, although relatively few have smartphones.
This means if you’re trying to contact someone, phoning them is almost always the best way. Apps like Facebook, FaceTime and WhatsApp are very popular for those with internet connectivity.
This does mean internet cafes are becoming harder to find. Don’t expect smaller hotels to offer WiFi.
My personal experience suggests emailing is not a lot of use. You’re much more likely to get a response by calling.
Don’t be surprised if anyone asks for your number. Most won’t ever call you – they just want it to show off to friends. Some will remain in contact, and long-term friendships can be made.
You should never feel pressured into sending money to anyone.
How to deal with corruption and requests for bribes in Africa
Transparency International’s Corruption Perception Index has five of the top ten spots on its most corrupt list filled by African nations. Only the Seychelles is in the top 30 least corrupt countries on the list.
Corruption remains very much a part of the fabric of life for many Africans. On the whole, travellers to Africa are not affected and not asked for ‘gifts’, ‘presents’ or unofficial ‘fees’.
You should resist the temptation to give in to such demands, as it only continues the cycle. Ignoring them, or laughing them off is the best form of action.
Those asking for them know what they are doing is illegal, and run a fine line between getting into difficulty themselves.
I’ve also found locals shielding me from the need to pay bribes that they have to pay (generally for a failure to have an ID card, having a cracked windscreen on their vehicle, or other minor crime).
If someone insists you have to ‘pay something’, you should ask for an official receipt, or to pay it instead at the nearest police station. Politeness and patience should almost always see you succeed. Do not threaten to report officers.
Road blocks are usually cursory, and generally nothing to worry about.
Those who have carried out a service for you, such as carrying a bag, will usually expect a tip. Something equivalent to the price of a cup of tea or a snack at a roadside stall is appropriate.
General photography rules for Africa
People love to have their photograph taken, but that doesn’t mean you should ever take their image without obtaining permission. Don’t think that just because you are using a long-range lens and they can’t see you that it’s not a problem.
If anyone refuses, you should simply find another subject for your images. If they agree, try and create a rapport with them rather than immediately lifting the camera to your eye.
See if they have a WhatsApp account, so you can send them a copy of the image. Most people on the continent don’t have many images of themselves.
At the same time, you should avoid photographing anything that looks official, including telephone masts, bridges, or police stations. Doing so can get you in serious trouble, even if there is no signage to indicate the danger.
Light is best for photography during the golden hour. It’s defined as the hour immediately after dawn (around 6 am) and before dusk (at around 6 pm).
These are also the hours when animals are most active on safari. Cities don’t really become alive until 8 or 9 am.
Africa’s top foods and drinks to look out for
I prefer eating in local establishments, or on the street, then in a stuffy overpriced restaurant with no atmosphere.
You’ll generally be offered some sort of cutlery. If not, avoid using your left hand, which is seen as unclean.
Most dishes include meat or fish, and true vegetarian dishes in Africa are difficult to come by. However, eggs are in plentiful supply, and provide a useful alternative. If you’re vegan, I’m afraid you’re going to struggle.
Likewise, speciality diets such as gluten- or lactose-free foods won’t be available outside of big international hotel chains in capital cities.
I’ll be honest; half the time, I have no idea what I’m eating until after the event.
Ingredients are as varied as Africa’s nations themselves, but here are a few popular dishes to look out for when on the road, whether you opt for street food or something a little more formal.
Jollof Rice
Originating from west Africa, jollof is particularly common in Ghana and Nigeria. Ingredient lists are fiercely fought over online, although no two plates of jollof rice seem to be the same.
Made with rice cooked in a blend of tomatoes, onions, and spices such as curry powder and chilli, it has a vague resemblance to paella. Pieces of meat can be cooked with the rice, or cooked separately and served alongside it.
Bobotie
A South African delicacy, bobotie blends curried minced beef or lamb with a topping of bread soaked in milk. It’s baked in the oven until set into a cake. It is usually served with yellow rice (boiled with turmeric), and topped with desiccated coconut.
A further sweet tang comes from the addition of a couple of tablespoons of apricot jam while preparing the mince.
Pepper Soup
Spice fans step forward, pepper soup is the dish for you. Broth-like in consistency, pepper soup is served right across west Africa.
Just about the only guaranteed ingredient is seriously hot peppers. Sure to get you sweating, onion, ginger, and garlic are all frequently added. You might also find chunks of fish, chicken, beef or goat.
Fuul
Fuul, ful, or ful medames can be found in the countries of the Sahara northward.
A staple food for poorer communities, it consists of a dish of fava beans or broad beans stewed until soft with spices including cumin. It’s often served drizzled in olive oil with half a raw onion.
Mafé
For richness, mafé takes some beating. One of Senegal’s best offerings, this is a stew with a thick sauce that smacks you around the face with a peanut flavour bomb. Simple as that.
Crin crin
Spelt in a variety of different ways, crin crin is one of few confirmed vegetarian dishes that can be found in west Africa.
It’s most common in Sierra Leone and Liberia. While plating often leaves a lot to be desired, I urge you to forget its looks and give this stew of chopped leafy greens (anything from cassava to potato leaves) a taste.
Shakshuka
Rich with egg, sweet with tomato and peppers, and spicy with harissa paste, shakshuka is one to look out for across the nations of north Africa.
While a traditional breakfast dish, there are plenty of restaurants serving it throughout the day. The very best will give you ample bread to mop up the remnants.
Side dishes
For me, there’s no competition. It’s deep-fried slices of plantain all the way. But it’s rice that is probably the most common side to dishes in most of Africa, alongside a side dish that many travellers love to hate.
It’s produced in a variety of different ways, with alternative ingredients, and called any number of names, from fufu and ugali to gari. All come down to the roughly the same thing.
And that’s a boiled paste often called a savoury porridge yet with the slightly stretchy consistency of uncooked bread dough. It’s eaten by tearing a piece off the main ball, and dipping this into an accompanying sauce with your fingers.
Drinks
All the usual big names in soft drinks are present in Africa, with Coca-Cola favoured over Pepsi.
Tea is much more common than coffee (look out for roosibos, or redbush, in South Africa). Pretty much every country produces its own lagers, of varying quality.
One of the few homegrown soft drinks I’ve discovered is bissap. It’s made from infusing hibiscus flowers in water. This produces a pinky and rather sour concoction that reminds me of pomegranate. It can be served both hot and cold.
Gay rights in Africa
There’s little good news for LGBT+ travellers or locals identifying as LGBT+ in Africa. Only South Africa and Cabo Verde have legal protections against any form of discrimination based on sexual orientation.
Even then, communities tend to be both religious and conservative in outlook, and may consider homosexuality to be unnatural. There is still a perception that individual choose to be gay.
For the most part, this refers to male same sex relationships. Lesbianism is widely thought not to exist.
Homosexual relationships are legal in 22 of Africa’s 54 nations, meaning they are illegal in 32 countries.
In a handful, including Namibia, Sierra Leone, Ethiopia and South Sudan, homosexuality remains a crime on the statute books, but one that is unenforced.
There is no definitive geographic spread as to where LGBT+ relationships are permissible. However, there are no direct edicts against homosexual relationships in Portugal’s former colonies, nor in much of French central Africa.
France’s Napoleonic code means it has never been illegal to have a same sex relationship in many of these countries.
However, there are still significant levels of discrimination to be overcome both at home and in the work place. Most gay men and women therefore choose to remain closeted.
Is Africa safe for gay travellers?
As a gay traveller, or as a same sex couple, the best advice is to be low-key. In other words, act as friends rather than lovers. As a visitor, you’re highly unlikely to be formerly challenged, but your foreign status won’t protect you from arrest.
Engaging in homosexual activity is punishable by prison sentences in far too many African countries, including many once ruled from London. In Mauritania, northern Nigeria, and southern Somalia, being gay can lead to execution.
The only destination with any significant gay nightlife is Cape Town. The undisputed gay capital of Africa, travellers can feel relatively free to be themselves here, as some more enlightened South Africa travel guides might suggest.
Interacting with locals in Africa
Social standing is incredibly important in most communities. This stems in part from birth – whether you were born into a noble family – but also relates to age and rank.
The elderly are treated with very high levels of respect. Still very much the heads of the household or community, their word is next to the chief’s. You should never go against what an elder says, or contradict them, even if you disagree.
Elders will normally be served or invited to eat first, and allowed to enter rooms before others. A small nod of the head is a good simple way of showing respect.
You should also look to shake hands with someone of the same sex. If the person if of the opposite sex, you can put your hand to your heart to show respect.
I’d advise you to call everyone you meet sir or madam until you work out where they are in the social standing. You should only ever call someone by their first (given, or Christian) name if given express permission to do so.
Usually this is only the case for those younger than you are. Maintain social boundaries, and don’t be too over familiar.
In big cities, people tend to keep themselves to themselves. But elsewhere people can ask a lot of questions. Some can seem quite personal, such as ‘why aren’t you married?’ or ‘how much do you earn?’.
No one means anything by this, they are simply interested. It’s up to you to think of a sensible answer to the latter question posed here.
Part of respecting the cultures you’re passing through is dressing to avoid offence. You shouldn’t wear items of clothing that reveal areas of skin beyond the lower arms and legs.
Flowing, baggy or oversized items that hide your figure, whether male or female, are best.
Travelling in Africa with disabilities
Travelling in Africa with a disability is never going to be easy. Infrastructure in much of the continent remains weak.
Road and pavement surfaces can be horrendous and are often accompanied by high kerbs edged with open storm drains. Dropped kerbs are a rarity, with Monrovia being a notable exception.
Steps are commonplace, ramps and handrails noticeable by their absence.
The best place to visit in Africa with a disability is undoubtedly South Africa, which has the most developed infrastructure, smooth pavements and ramps.
That said, safari operators across the continent are generally willing to welcome travellers with disabilities.
It’s unlikely they will have any special training or equipment, such as accessible showers, which you’ll need to investigate carefully on booking.
Most safari lodges are single storey constructions, although many have individual chalets, tents or villas connected together by unsurfaced paths. You’ll also need to be able to manoeuvre yourself into jeeps, boats and light aircraft.
It’s likely you’ll be a figure of interest to locals, who do not encounter those with disabilities often. Events like the Paralympic Games are helping to break down barriers.
It means locals probably won’t know how to interact with you. With a little guidance, they will learn what you need support with, and will do all they can to help.
Women travellers in Africa
There are two sides to travelling in Africa as a woman, whether solo, part of an all-female group, or when travelling with men.
The vast majority of Africans will treat you with respect, both as a woman and as a visitor to their country. However, there are some men who see western women from a sexualised viewpoint.
It’s usually best to interact wherever possible with local women first. Not only will they have a greater understanding of local attitudes, but talking as an equal to a man can in some areas been seen as a challenge to authority.
Bars and nightclubs remain the domain of men. Women shouldn’t enter without a male they know accompanying them. It’s rare to see women drinking alcohol.
Period products are available in major towns and cities. They tend to be high in price as they are imported from abroad, and so it’s generally easiest just to bring what you’ll need from home.
Public toilets are all but non-existent, and generally in a bad state of repair when they do, being little more than unsafe holes in the ground. Higher-end restaurants may have facilities for their patrons, but don’t count on it.
Locals tend to be understanding to western needs, and I’ve used plenty of private toilets in emergencies during my time in Africa.
Travelling with children
Africans adore children. Having them remains the purpose of marriages for most on the continent. You certainly won’t have any problem finding an unofficial babysitter!
Museums can be a little stuffy for younger children, and dedicated playgrounds are thin on the ground outside of South Africa, and (oddly) Angola.
Many safari lodges run children’s programmes to keep little ones entertained while adults are on game drives. These include learning how to track animals with Maasai tribesmen in Kenya, and plant identification in Kruger National Park.
Slightly older children will be blown away by the whole safari experience and are sure to love the colour of the continent.
Hotels don’t tend to have an issue with families sharing a room, and in areas with large numbers of family visitors can provide cots or beds for children.
Nappies and formula milk can be hard to find. Breastfeeding is standard practice, although you should still do so in a low-key manner.
Children are particularly prone to Africa’s heat, so be sure to keep them cool, ensure they wear hats and sunglasses, and avoid direct sun during the middle part of the day. Children will need a steady supply of sunscreen too.
If you’re travelling in Africa while pregnant or when trying to get pregnant, you should speak to a medical professional before leaving home. The zika virus remains a concern. It is transmitted by mosquitos and has caused birth defects.
Solo travel in Africa
If you’re wondering how to travel to Africa solo, or whether it’s safe to travel in Africa alone, then the truth of it is there are no firm rules to the first question and no simple yes or no to the second.
Travelling solo is always going to be more dangerous then travelling with others. As someone who has spent almost all their two years in Africa travelling solo, I think solo travellers basically need to follow the same guidelines as any other traveller, anywhere in the world.
Keep your wits about you, and always look as though you know what you’re doing even if you don’t. Don’t do anything or go anywhere you wouldn’t at home, and avoid isolated areas, whether they are a city street or a beach.
To a certain extent, you are dependent on trusting those around you, and there’s nothing wrong in this. My own travels have taught me that the world isn’t full of wicked people like we are sometimes told it is.
Most people in Africa will do everything they can to send you home with a positive view of them and their country, including the police and other officials.
But if something seems a little fishy, it probably is. Remove yourself from the situation – politely – as soon as you can.
Staying up to date
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Your complete Africa travel guide: travel Africa your way
Ten thousand words later, this guide to how to travel in Africa is wrapping up. I’ve aimed to cover all the main themes of travelling in Africa using my experience travelling in both Africa’s high risk countries and Africa’s low risk countries.
I’ve also tried to answer all the questions I get asked regularly as one of the world’s self-proclaimed Africa travel experts.
But if you have anything to add, you can drop it in the comments box below or connect with me on social media. And if you found this guide useful, why not share it on your social channels too?
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