Guide to Sao Tome e Principe

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A view down the palm-fringed beach of Ilheu das Rolas, part of Sao Tome e Principe

Hidden off the Atlantic coast of Gabon in west Africa, Sao Tome e Principe is a country consisting of several tiny islands. Together they form a unique mix of mainland African and Portuguese cultures. If you want to say you’ve explored Africa’s second-smallest nation state, check out my guide to Sao Tome e Principe.

The origins of the islands

Cannon overlooking the port on Sao Tome, Sao Tome e Principe

Isolated and relatively difficult to reach even today, it’s believed that the islands flying the flag of Sao Tome e Principe were uninhabited until European interest in Africa in the 1400s.

Traditionally, the first landing is thought to have been by Portuguese sailors arriving on 21 December 1471. The feast day of St Thomas the Apostle, the island they landed on was named Sao Tome.

Echoing the birth of colonial Australia, the first settlers to the islands of Sao Tome and Principe were exiles from Portugal. Many were Jews.

A few years later, the islands became caught up in the Atlantic slave trade. Slaves were brought over from west Africa to feed the labour demands of the new sugar cane plantations of the Americas.

As competition in the sugar industry grew, the islands became an offshore mooring for slave ships crossing the Atlantic.

The modern political landscape

The flag of independent Sao Tome e Principe sprayed onto a brick wall

Slavery was abolished in the late 1800s. The main industry became agriculture, with many crops beside sugar growing well on the volcanic soils of the islands.

The islands gained independence from Portugal in 1975 as a one-party state. Multi-party democracy came to the fore in the 1990s, and the country has never really looked back.

It is widely regarded as one of the best governed countries on the continent. It also ranks highly on development indices.

While corruption does exist, the strong belief in freedom of speech has seen corrupt practices steadily decline. For visitors, this means no more chance of being asked for a bung than in France.

Geography of Sao Tome e Principe

A view down the palm-fringed beach of Ilheu das Rolas, part of Sao Tome e Principe

The country is formed of two major island groups, that of Sao Tome and that of Principe.

They are separated from one another by about 90 miles (140 km) of Atlantic Ocean. At their nearest points, they are almost twice the distance as Gabon.

When it comes to location, they lie almost exactly on the equator, which passes through Ilheu das Rolas.

The islands are the result of eruptions of volcanoes that stretch across the region and include Mount Cameroon. They are therefore typified by central weathered cones whose flanks are made up of tropical forests.

These give way to ribbons of pristine sand, making the islands an attractive proposition for anyone who enjoys a spot of time on the beach.

What to expect in Sao Tome e Principe

The Cathedral of Our Lady of Grace, Sao Tome

Colonised by Portugal, Portuguese is the lingua franca of Sao Tome e Principe. However, the proximity of the islands to Francophone west Africa means French is of growing importance.

When it comes to climate, conditions remain pretty constant throughout the year. Temperatures sit almost constantly around 27°C (80 F), and don’t really peak above 32°C (89 F).

The majority of the country’s rain falls between October and May, which keeps the islands lush and green. However, with up to 200 inches (5,000 mm) of rain falling, it can put a dampener on travel plans.

Although Sao Tome e Principe lacks the megafauna of mainland Africa, its beaches are important nesting sites for endangered sea turtles. Their oceanic location also makes them an important stopping point for numerous bird species.

As a result, the nation lays claim to the world’s largest sunbird, smallest ibis, and the incredibly rare Sao Tome fiscal, found nowhere else.

On the ground

Aircraft are an important form of transport on Sao Tome e Principe

Sao Tome e Principe’s roads have been improved in recent years, making moving around islands much more pleasant.

Ferries connect Sao Tome and Principe, although safety fears lead many to opt for the air link instead. A ferry also connects Sao Tome with Ilheu das Rolas for visits to the equator line.

Mobile phones are common, and cheap to use, while good-speed internet is also readily available in towns and cities.

The islands’ currency is the dobra, which can be easily exchanged for US dollars and Euros. Euros can also be used to pay for larger purchases such as hotel stays. The dobra has been pegged to the Euro since 2010, making it one of Africa’s most stable currencies.

You can’t get dobra outside the country, but the currency is easy to exchange in banks and on the street.

Your guide to Sao Tome e Principe

Easy going Sao Tome and laid-back Principe don’t often feature in travel magazines. But their unique culture and colourful streets are ripe for exploration. What’s more, there’s probably nowhere else quite so enticing to straddle the equator. This guide to Sao Tome e Principe has hopefully already convinced you of that!

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About Ian M Packham

Ian is a freelance travel writer, adventurer and after-dinner speaker. The author of two travelogues, he specialises in Africa and has spent a total of two years travelling around the continent, largely by locally-available transport.
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