Is Western Sahara safe to visit?

Last updated July 18th, 2023.

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Western Sahara lies just south and west of Spain’s Canary Islands on the northwest coast of Africa. It has been one of the world’s trouble spots for half a century. A disputed region, Western Sahara is either an integral part of Morocco to the north, or the world’s largest non-self-governing territory. But what does this mean for travellers? Is Western Sahara safe to visit?

The history of the Western Sahara dispute

As Spanish Sahara, Western Sahara was a Spanish colony until 1975. For much of this time, it was split into two provinces, Saguia El Hamra and Rio de Oro. They were ruled separately to the Cape Juby region of Spanish Morocco.

When Spain withdrew, Western Sahara was immediately occupied by Mauritania from the south and Morocco from the north.

Mauritania pulled back to its colonial-era borders after just a couple of years. This allowed Moroccan forces to occupy the majority of the country, against the will of the Sahwari, the people of Western Sahara. They continue to call for a referendum on self-determination and independence, as does the UN.

The Sahwari are represented by the Polisario Front. It governs roughly 20% of the territory’s total area, largely along the border with Mauritania. A government-in-exile, they govern from Tindouf in Algeria. Thousands of Sahwari continue to live in refugee camps in the same country as they have done for decades. Many were even born in the camps, and have never seen their homeland.

Is it safe to travel through Western Sahara?

The majority of visitors to Western Sahara have very little to worry about. In all likelihood, you’ll be travelling through areas administered by Moroccan forces. They are safe to travel through.

There are no border formalities between Morocco and Western Sahara. There are plenty of checkpoints on the roads (and Moroccan pentagram flags too). So long as your passport is in order, you won’t endure anything more taxing than having your details recorded in a ledger for prosperity. There’s no need for an additional visa, or a change of currency.

As some sort of demonstration to safety in Western Sahara, there are plenty of hotels in Dakhla and Laayoune (the ‘capital’), as well as a solitary example on the coast close to the border with Mauritania.

However, you should not attempt to travel between Moroccan administered areas and those run by the Polisario Front, which are divided by a long artificial ridge. Sahwari areas can only be reached via Mauritania, and even then it’s not all that easy.

While a ceasefire has been in place for some time, this internal border is still an active military zone which doesn’t welcome visitors.

Safety tips for travel through Western Sahara

For the most part, you can follow the same well-known safety tips as you would if travelling in Morocco.

Women should dress modesty as a way of avoiding unwanted attention and sexual harassment. If possible, travel in a group or by private taxi rather than using public transport options, which are crowded and gropey.

You should steer clear of any kind of protest, as they can rapidly turn violent. Moroccan authorities are not averse to cracking down heavily on any perceived dissent, and an international passport will not save you from a baton charge. You should also avoid actively voicing any support you may have for the Sahwari cause.

If travelling by road, be aware that there remains a risk from unexploded landmines. This risk increases substantially in the most remote areas. If you’re a little nervy, consider an organized tour instead.

There is also a risk of terrorism, coming from supporters of extremist Islam rather than the Polisario Front. Indiscriminate in nature, these attacks are very difficult to guard against, and you would be very unlucky to be caught up in one.

Is Western Sahara safe?

With the care you should take in any destination in the world, it’s not difficult to declare Western Sahara safe to visit, given my experiences in the territory. So long as you check your government’s travel advice before arrival, there’s no reason you shouldn’t be able to explore this rarely-visited part of Africa without problem.