Mozambique has risen phoenix-like from the ashes of civil war in the 1980s and 90s to become one of southern Africa’s most exciting destinations. It still has some way to go as a fully-fledged safari destination. But for beaches, diving, heritage, and culture Mozambique already shines bright. When it comes… Continue reading
This short guide aims to highest Africa’s best diving destinations. Think of Africa, and it’s likely that it’s the continent’s plains and rainforests that come to mind. And you should definitely take any opportunity to head out on safari and enjoy the sights and sounds of happy elephant. But don’t… Continue reading
Africa has an incredible array of cultural celebrations. They range from tribal gatherings to modern dance and music events. Experience a different side of the continent with what I think are the coolest festivals in Africa. 1. Lake of Stars, Malawi If there’s a better name for a festival I… Continue reading
Up until 1975 Lourenço Marques was the largest city in Mozambique. Almost overnight it disappeared from the maps of the region. Its disappearance wasn’t the result of war or pestilence, but that of a name change. As Maputo, the city remains the largest in the country, the capital, and home… Continue reading
Dhow to Kilwa Kisiwani In Mocimboa the sky was cloudless, the sun burning at 9am. Perhaps a reminder I’m slowly creeping back towards the equator. The knock for transport to the frontiera comes at 2.20am. I wasn’t really sleeping anyway. As one of the first to board I’m given a… Continue reading
In the morning half-wakefulness the gubb gubb gubb of the turkeys outside my room sounded like ‘up up up’, meaning ‘north! north! north!’. I head north from Pemba to Quissanga, the next town along the coast. Within a couple of minutes of walking I can see that Quissanga is exactly… Continue reading
Tumbledown island Nampula is not coastal. It is a relatively large town, meaning running water, proper sugared ring doughnuts, and onward connections to Mozambique Island. A large minibus (capacity around 25, today’s capacity about 35) is almost ready to depart, for the morning’s journey. The poverty of the island –… Continue reading
The tar runs into smooth-ish orange clay that’s just beginning to become crennalated not soon after Mocuba. The sun tries to break through the clouds-cum-mist over the vast green of Mozambique in the rains that can’t have changed much in hundreds of years save for the mobile phone masts. We… Continue reading
The unchanged face of Mozambique’s countryside For long distance transport from Imhassoro I’m told I must first go to Maluwane 15km away, less of a town worthy of a name, more of a T junction on the road. At the felled tree trunk that serves as a waiting room I… Continue reading
The Imhambane-Maxixe ferry. The key to speaking Portuguese is your best Sean Connery impersonation. The tent had to be packed away for 5.30 am and the bus to Imhambane. We see much less of the coast then I imagined we would, but when we do its spectacular. Verdant islands just… Continue reading
