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Tracing its history back to the Queen of Sheba, you can be sure any trip to Ethiopia will be loaded with mysticism. Far from the scenes of famine still often associated with this east African nation, Ethiopia is an ideal holiday destination. Besides a rich history, Ethiopia is rightly famous as the birthplace of humankind. And where better to begin our story as a species but its mountainous landscapes, lakes and rivers? From the source of the Nile to the Ark of the Covenant (yes, really), these are the best things to do in Ethiopia.
1. Visit the tribespeople of the Omo Valley
The lower Omo Valley, in southwest Ethiopia, contains one of the last pristine riverine forests in this part of Africa. Alongside its savannah grasslands and outcrops of volcanic rock, it provides a habitat for a huge range of species.
But that’s only one reason to head to the Omo Valley. For the region is also a home to around 200,000 people. Belonging to eight main tribal groups, they continue to live traditional lives, as they have done for centuries.
It’s a very different take to the suited workers of central Addis Ababa. Instead, the Omo Valley is a place to learn about tribal traditions. These include the hunting and fishing techniques of the Kewgu, and cattle raising of the Me’en, Daasanach, Karo, Mursi and Nyangatom.
In fact, cultures and even languages can change from village to village. This makes for a fascinating insight into life in one of the harshest habitats on Earth.
2. Go hiking in the Simien Mountains
Despite lowland areas such as the Omo Valley, much of Ethiopia is a cacophony of mountain spires. Topographical maps of the country look like a scrunched-up piece of paper has been laid flat again. It’s one of the reasons Ethiopia developed very differently to its neighbouring countries.
Typifying this scene is Simien Mountains National Park, located in northern Ethiopia. This high-altitude playground offers some of Ethiopia’s best hiking. In addition to phenomenal panoramas, walkers can expect encounters with endemic wildlife, and nights in extraordinary eco-lodges.
No wonder the Simien Mountains is one of my top national parks in Ethiopia. Organised walks can last anywhere from three to nine days, incorporating major Ethiopian attractions such as Jinbar Falls and Ras Dashen. The latter is Ethiopia’s highest point, and no stroll in the park at 4,550 metres high.
Animal encounters should also come thick and fast. The ‘bleeding heart’ patination of Gelada baboons is hard to miss. But keep an eye out for skulking Ethiopian wolves and Walia ibex too.
3. Seek out the Ark of the Covenant at Aksum
The Ark of the Covenant (sought by Indiana Jones in Raiders of the Lost Ark) wouldn’t just be one of the top sights in Ethiopia. It would be one of the top sights in the world. And yet there it is in a church in the northern town of Aksum (or Axum).
Or so it’s said. You won’t be able to check for yourself since there’s only one man in the world who’s allowed to enter The Chapel of the Tablet. That’s its guardian – an Ethiopian Orthodox monk. Not even Ethiopia’s last emperor, Haile Selassie, was permitted a peek.
My introductory guide to Ethiopia goes into more detail on just why the Ark of the Covenant may have come to rest in Ethiopia.
What can be seen is Aksum’s mighty stelae. Dating back around 1,700 years, these giant obelisk-like structures are up to 33 metres long. Using everyone’s favourite measuring device, that’s three London buses end to end.
What’s more, many of these giant blocks of granite-like nepheline syenite are still standing, and thought to have once marked royal tombs. You’ll find the largest number in Northern Stelae Park, on the northern edge of town.
4. Admire the murals of Lake Tana’s monasteries
Lake Tana, in Ethiopia’s northwest, is large enough to feel like a sea when you’re sailing on it. With weather conditions which can change rapidly, it’s perhaps no wonder its myriad islands became the location of several historic monasteries.
One of the newest is Debre Maryam monastery, constructed at the behest of Emperor Tewodros in the 1800s. Like most monasteries and churches in the country, it’s a round structure covered with gorgeous highly-coloured religious murals inside and out.
Daga Estefanos monastery is one of the country’s holiest. Its artworks date in some instances to the 1500s. Its other treasures include the mummified remains of several early emperors. The downside is the three-hour boat ride needed to get here, plus the fact religious diktat prevents women from entering.
Women and mixed groups might instead consider visiting Ura Kidane Mehret monastery on the Zege Peninsula. Visits to the monastery are easiest to sort as part of an organised tour.
Lake Tana is also important because it’s the source of the Blue Nile, which then flows through Sudan and Egypt. Not far from the lake’s main town, Bahir Dar, is Blue Nile Falls. Damming of the river upstream means its not a patch on what it once was.
Bahir Dar is where you’ll find most of the lake’s top accommodation options.
5. Explore the castles of Gondar
Also spelt Gonder, this pleasant and relaxed town holds another of the best things to do in Ethiopia. That’s its Royal Enclosure (Fasil Ghebbi), which has resulted in the town being called the ‘Camelot of Africa’.
Long before the country’s present capital, Addis Ababa, existed, it was Gonder which was capital of the Ethiopian Empire. It was founded by the Emperor Fasilides (ruled 1632-1667) in 1635.
The earliest castle dates from this period, with the emperor’s successors each building their own fortified homes. Alongside stables, library, churches and an old lion cage, the Royal Enclosure shows a distinct European influence. This points to the presence of the Portuguese in Ethiopia in this time.
Elsewhere in Gonder, visitors should be sure to check out Fasilides’ Baths. It forms a key part of the country’s timkat (epiphany) celebrations in January, when devotees become baptised. Although I’ve never made it to Gonder for the celebrations, other visitors tell me it’s a joyful and relaxed event where even solo women felt completely safe.
Don’t miss anything Gonder has to offer with this full-day tour of the city.
6. Say hello to Lucy
Lucy doesn’t say much anymore. Yet all the same she’s one of the top attractions at Addis Ababa’s National Museum of Ethiopia. She’s also looking her age – an incredible 3.2 million years old.
Lucy is the partial skeleton of a hominid (early human) species called Australopithecus afarensis. Her bones were discovered in 1974 in Hadar in the Awash Valley. She became famous because her bones showed evidence of bipedal walking.
With a collection which also includes the crown of Emperor Menelik (ruled 1889 – 1913) and throne of Emperor Haile Selassie, the museum is absolutely one of the top things to do in Addis Ababa.
I think you should expect to spend at least an hour in the museum. If, like me, you’re a huge history fan, this could easily stretch into a second hour too.
7. Admire the handiwork of angels at Lalibela
There’s one reason and one reason alone to tour Lalibela. It’s clutch of monolithic churches, which date back around 800 years. And when I mean monolithic, I’m using the word to mean its true definition, of being cut from a single block of stone.
In the case of Lalibela’s churches, this single block of stone is the Earth’s bedrock. As such, these multistorey glories of medieval architecture technically drop down into the Earth’s crust, with nothing rising above ground level.
There are lots of arguments as to why (and even when) Lalibela’s 11 churches were cut from the rock. The consensus is that they date from the twelfth and thirteenth centuries. They’re meant to date from the rule of a king and saint by the name of Lalibela. And constructed by angels overnight.
Covering a multitude of architectural styles, each is inspiring enough in its own right. Arguably the best is Bete Giyorgis, the Church of Saint George. Its cruciform structure is unforgettable, and spans three stories.
8. Take the train to Dire Dawa
In my opinion, train travel is a pleasure in and of itself. No other form of transport gets you quite as close to the landscapes you’re passing through. Or lulls you to sleep with its rhythmic passage. Or makes it so easy to chat with fellow travellers.
A colonial-era line rebuilt with Chinese workers and finances, the line from Addis Ababa to Dire Dawa (and on to Djibouti) was reopened in 2018.
This makes it one of Africa’s newest, most comfortable rail journeys. Sadly though, the decision was made to abandon the former rail station in the area of Addis still known as gare. Travellers must instead head to stations at either Indode or Furi-Lebu on the city’s outskirts.
At Dire Dawa, passengers will find a laid-back city shifting between the Kezira colonial quarter and Megala Islamic-style old town. Almost entirely free of tourists, it’s a great place to explore Ethiopian life, and perhaps read a little Evelyn Waugh, who visited in the 1930s.
9. Stand on one of the world’s lowest points
Home of the Afar people since before written records existed, the Danakil Depression holds the record as one of the lowest points on the Earth’s surface. It lies 125 metres below sea level in a landscape of erupting volcanoes and sulphur springs.
This makes the Danakil Depression unmissable, and one of the best things to do in Ethiopia. An otherworldly landscape of blues (lakes), yellows (minerals) and reds (lava), it was here that the skeleton Lucy was discovered.
For modern explores, Danakil promises unrivalled vistas (and incredible heat). Most tours to the region will include time at Dallol hot springs and on the slopes of volcano Erta Ale. Here, lava lakes bubble and steam like Mad Max (or Croc: Legend of the Gobbos) on steroids.
The best things to do in Ethiopia
It’s seen as a niche travel destination by some. However, Ethiopia has an incredible range of attractions. Add to this a well-maintained (if winding) road network, new railway, fascinating history and proud tribespeople, and you’ve got a holiday you’ll be shouting about for all the right reasons. That’s a (not legally binding) promise.
