One thing I might miss from Yaoundé is its quality beighnet sucre (doughnuts). The taxi to the bus company depot south of Yaoundé’s centre cost as much as the minibus ticket to Kribi. We follow route nationale 3 back down to Edea before turning east. Close to Kribi we almost stumble accidentally upon the Atlantic from the hills. Its a fantastic sight.
The chutes de la Lobé lie about 8km south of Kribi. If you manage to find the correct place to pick up a motorbike taxi and avoid the offer of a boat ride you’ll find the waterfall perfectly hidden behind a couple of bars. The water – wide and low – drop straight into the ocean. I imagine many inebriated people have done the same following the precarious footpath.
In the evening I sit on the beach watching the white-topped waves roll in after dark while picking the flesh off a fresh fish flavoured with intense pepperiness with my fingers. Accompanied by fried plaintain I can think of nothing better.
I catch a huit-place shared taxi (that’s a six-place with too many people in it) to Campo the last town before the border with Equatorial Guinea. I was asked in Kribi why I wasn’t going into Equatorial Guinea. “Its too difficult to get a visa” was my response. “They don’t like foreigners. They don’t like whites”. In fact its probably easier for a richman to enter heaven then for a normal tourist to gain admittance to Equatorial Guinea. And we know its easier for a camel to pass through the eye of a needle then it is for a richman to enter heaven.