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Life’s a beach in Benguela
Benguela’s coastal end of town is really rather delightful. Lovely tree- and palm-lined streets connecting clean planted squares that offer seating in the shade. However, there is no public transport between Benguela and the coastal town of Namibe, the hub being Lubango. So I must leave the coast once more and head there (again). From Lubango I head for Namibia before the ready cash runs out.
The hotel room I’m given fills most criteria, but has no key. The owner assures me there is no problem in this. I must trust him. So much of this trip has relied on putting large amounts of trust in total strangers. And here I am.
From Lubango I have to return to Namibia via Santa Clara, the town I entered Angola from. Its was getting late to be travelling the last 45 km to the border, which closes everyday at 6pm. I arrive in Santa Clara at 5.35, and pass through the gates with ‘Namibia’ on at 5.55. The immigration office door is shut, but I’m pointed around the corner (and told to hurry). Everyone rushes to get me through, they don’t seem to care who I might actually be!
Another big sigh of relief then, as well as a shift forward of an hour, and to the left hand side of the road from the first time.
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About Ian M Packham

Ian is a freelance travel writer, adventurer and after-dinner speaker. The author of two travelogues, he specialises in Africa and has spent a total of two years travelling around the continent, largely by locally-available transport.
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