Is Sierra Leone safe to visit?

Last updated September 7th, 2023.

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Is Sierra Leone safe to travel to? Those who don’t know the West African nation will probably shakes their heads in despair for anyone even asking. But those who do will give you a very different answer.

There’s little point denying that Sierra Leone has had it tough. But that’s what makes a trip to this wondrous country all the more pleasantly surprising. For all its people have endured, Sierra Leone is an astonishingly well-rounded nation. Smiles abound, and the nation is known across Africa for its sense of humour. In Sierra Leone, laughter is never far away. And that’s only the start.

Introducing ‘Salone’

Some might look at the history of Sierra Leone and declare the country thoroughly cursed. Others, Sierra Leoneans included, see their country as blessed. When thinking about the country, it’s best to think of it split into two. But that division is not between cursed and blessed, but between coastal and inland regions.

Sierra Leone probably takes its name from the Portuguese for the Lion Mountains of the Freetown Peninsula. In turn, they were named either because of their leonine appearance, or for the sound of thunder echoing around them during the rainy season.

The country’s flag shuns the pan-African colours for horizontal stripes of blue, white and green from bottom to top. Their original symbolism may differ, but it’s easy to see them as representing the deep blues of the Atlantic Ocean, the white sands of its beaches, and the rich green of its tree cover.

Located on the curving bulge of west Africa, Sierra Leone’s small size makes it all the easier to explore its string of inviting Atlantic beaches. They have been used by international brands to sell everything from alcohol to chocolate bars. They stretch from the capital, Freetown, all the way to the border with Liberia at the country’s southern extreme.

A short history of Sierra Leone

The Freetown Peninsula became a semi-autonomous ‘nation’ after it was purchased by anti-slavery campaigners in 1787. Their aim was to create a settlement for freed and rescued slaves in their ‘homeland.’ Many traced ancestry back to other parts of Africa. The unintended consequence of this was long held animosity between these new arrivals and those already inhabiting the region.

Before then, Sierra Leone was a key port in the transatlantic slave trade. Remains from this period can be found right along the coast. Bunce Island in Freetown Harbour was a major departure point and one of the top things to do in Sierra Leone today. Many thousands of Africans were shipped to the southern states of the United States from here.

At the other end of the Freetown Peninsula, the Banana Islands were a lesser port. Cannon and a punishment hole can still be found here. Further south still lies Sherbro Island, which offers an insight into the region before the interference of colonial powers.

Becoming a British colony in the early 1800s, the country finally regained its independence in 1961. Its long link to Britain means that English is not only widely spoken, but the only official language on the statue books. That said, Krio, a separate language based on seventeenth- and eighteenth-century English, is widely spoken on the streets as well as numerous regional languages. It’s well worth knowing a few words in Krio as a way of introducing yourself.

Freetown and beyond

Central Freetown has a number of points of interest amid its neat gridwork of streets, and lacks much of the atmosphere of distrust and nervousness that can linger over other African capitals. My 24 hours in Freetown for The Travel Magazine covers the basics of what to see and do.

While laid-back – you won’t experience any of the hassle of Dakar, Marrakesh, or Egypt – pickpockets do target foreigners. Leave precious items somewhere safe (ideally at home) when you can, and keep money in a zipped front-facing pocket.

After dark (about 6.30 pm) you should be more aware of those around you and use taxis to get about. They’re cheap and relatively plentiful, although traffic can get snarled up. Stay in your hotel after dark and you’ll miss the best cuisine, and the nightlife of Lumley Beach.

Safety precautions in inland Sierra Leone

Move inland away from beaches and you’re soon in tropical forest – some of the most important remaining sections of jungle in the region. Stretching towards the country’s northern borders with Guinea, they provide a vital habitat for species as diverse as chimpanzee and pygmy hippos. Together, they are two of Africa’s most endangered species.

Wildlife attacks are not something you have to worry about beyond mosquitos. Malaria is widely prelevant in the country and you should do all you can to avoid contracting it. Knowing how to avoid malaria is a key part of pre-trip planning.

Sierra Leone is home to various venomous snake species, including olive whip snakes, green mambas, and Gaboon vipers. They tend to linger in sunny spots within forests, but are rarely a threat. You really have to annoy a snake to have it strike you. Ninety percent of the time, it will disappear on feeling your footsteps, so you see nothing but a reptilian tail.

The main safety issues with travelling across this part of the country is Sierra Leone’s battered infrastructure. All significant roads are tarred on the Freetown peninsula, as are those connecting Freetown with cities including Bo, Makeni, and Kenema. In fact, you can now travel all the way from Conakry to Monrovia via Freetown on paved roads (or take the new Freetown – Conakry ferry service).

But the Sierra Leone equivalent of B roads are often unsurfaced, narrow, and lack pavements. Even so, often-badly-maintained vehicles travel along them at speed, meaning road accidents are sadly all too common. Hardly any roads in the country are lit after dark, so avoiding travelling outside of big cities between dusk and dawn to reduce the risk of collisions.

Is Sierra Leone safe – my final thoughts

In spite of everything, Sierra Leone is now considered one of the region’s most stable nations. Its armed forces participate in international peace keeping duties, and while corruption does still exist, there is an increasing push to rid it from public life.

What’s more, Sierra Leone has seen uninterrupted democratic government since the end of its civil war in 1998 – putting it on a par with post-apartheid South Africa.

So is Sierra Leone safe? No destination can ever be declared entirely safe and free of risk. But if you’re thinking of heading to Sierra Leone, don’t let the question of safety put you off.