Is Nigeria safe to visit?

Last updated September 19th, 2023.

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Congratulations. If you’re reading this guide, you might be thinking about visiting one of Africa’s most underrated destinations. A fascinating blend of ancient kingdoms, religions, and landscapes, there are plenty of things to do in Nigeria as a tourist. It’s simply wrong to say that Nigeria is unsafe. But is Nigeria safe? You might not think so watching the news. Yet, as ever, the situation on the ground is very different than a 60 second broadcast can accurately portray.

Introducing Nigeria

Nigeria lies on the north-eastern reaches of the Gulf of Guinea on Africa’s west coast. Its name means ‘land of the Niger River’, which is just one of many rivers which flow south towards the gulf.

Sometimes known as the ‘giant of Africa’ because of its economic might, it has a population of around 214 million people. This makes it the most populous nation in Africa by approximately 100 million (Ethiopia comes second with 126 million).

The region roughly equating to modern-day Nigeria first came to the attention of Europeans with the transatlantic slave trade. The British outlawed the trade in 1807. Up to 3.5 million enslaved people were shipped to the Americas until that date.

Britain ruled Nigeria for the following 150 years or so. For the first 100 years, Nigeria was governed as two separate protectorates. They were split geographically into north and south.

Protectorates were governed indirectly by the Foreign Office, while colonies were directly governed by the Colonial Office, causing significant confusion all round. English remains the language of business and government, although most Nigerians speak at least one other tongue.

Is Nigeria a democracy?

Nigeria gained independence in 1960, alongside its west and central African neighbours. Civilian government soon fell to a succession of military regimes. Dissatisfaction between the north and south led to the Nigerian Civil War, also known as the Biafran War.

After what can easily (and lazily) be described as decades of political turmoil, democracy returned to Nigeria in 1999.

The first defeat of an incumbent democratically-elected president by the opposition occurred in 2015. This is a feat that is yet to be achieved by more mature democracies including that in South Africa, or African nations generally considered safe to visit such as Egypt.

As a sign of how much things have changed in Nigeria, the first person to receive a Covid-19 vaccination was a frontline doctor, not the president or his ministers.

Are Nigeria’s cities safe?

There are ten or so major international airports in Nigeria. Yet if you’re flying in, you’re more than likely to arrive into Abuja’s Nnamdi Azikiwe International Airport (IATA code ABV) or Lagos’ Murtala Mohammed (IATA airport code LOS).

Abuja is the national capital, and lies deliberately at the geographic centre of the country. However, Lagos is Nigeria’s biggest city by far.

In fact, Lagos is one of the largest cities in the world, and as such can certainly set the nerves on edge. However, you shouldn’t think you’ll be attacked as soon as you step out of a hotel foyer or four-wheel drive. You’re far more likely to get caught up in a traffic jam (locally known as a go slow) than endure being pickpocketed.

I laid out some helpful hints for staying safe in Africa recently, so won’t repeat them unnecessarily here.

I will add however, that your choice of hotel can also be important. When it comes to hotels in Lagos or Abuja, your best bet is a mid-range option.

They have the security (and comfort) you’ll probably want. But their position a rung belong the top hotels should prevent you becoming a potential target for criminals. I also avoid telling anyone which hotel I’m staying in for the same reason.

In addition, it’s worth noting good hotels in both cities can get booked up significantly ahead of time. Confirm your booking as soon as you can.

Is northern Nigeria safe?

The northern half of Nigeria is drier than the south, and considered part of the Sahel border region between the tropics and Sahara Desert. Most of those who live here are Hausa, and follow Islam.

The Nigeria military is fighting several insurgent groups in Nigeria’s northern states. The best known internationally is probably Boko Haram. Boko Haram means ‘books (in other words, western-style education) is forbidden’.

Boko Haram militants strike without warning, and were responsible for the kidnap of almost 300 christian schoolgirls in Chibok (Borno State) in 2014. In other words, they are not to be messed with.

Clashes have also taken place between nomadic Fulani herdsmen and farmers on the edges of towns. These clashes have resulted in deaths.

For the time being, anyone seeking to visit the northern states of Nigeria should take extreme caution. Foreigners, including those visiting family, have been targeted and some even killed in recent years. Western workers have also been kidnapped from protected compounds.

Nigeria’s twelve northern states follow Islamic sharia law. If you’re respectful and avoid talking about religion you won’t face any issues. During the fasting month of Ramadan, you should be extra cautious.

Is southern Nigeria safe?

Nigeria’s south is tropical in climate and mainly populated by christians belonging to either the Yoruba (in the southwest) or Igbo (also called the Ibo) in the southeast.

Southern Nigeria, and in particular the Niger Delta area, has seen its own troubles. This largely relates to the perception that the distribution of oil revenue is unfair to the Delta states.

There is still a threat of attack, and care should be taken in areas known for their oil links, such as Aba and Port Harcourt. Badagry, Lagos and Calabar are relatively safe by comparison.

Those creeks in the delta which are accessible only by boat, rather than road, are considered the region’s most dangerous areas. Most believe the safest way of travelling in southern Nigeria is by air.

Is travelling by road in Nigeria safe?

Nigeria’s roads range from perfect multilane highways to rarely-used dusty lanes. The best roads lie along the coast, connecting Nigeria’s southern border posts with Lagos to the west and Calabar in the east.

The country’s size means distances can be long, and traffic is often horrendous heading into major cities.

Taxis, and in particular okada motobike taxis, are a common way of getting about short distances, although their safety and driving standards cannot be guaranteed. In Lagos, you’ll need to wear a helmet when using okadas or risk a fine (the driver should have a spare). Unless you’re going somewhere very well known, you’ll probably have to direct the driver yourself.

The larger hotels can generally provide a trustworthy driver and car. They don’t cost a great deal more than a hire car. Ask for the credentials of any driver meeting you at the airport. Criminals have been known to masquerade as drivers.

If you travel between towns, it’s likely you’ll come across a roadblock. Some are official, others unofficial. Either way, you should stop and present your identification. You may be asked to pay a fee (i.e. a bribe), although from my experience foreigners are waved through without issue.

Is travelling around Nigeria safe?

Nigeria’s railways are generally overlooked as a transport option. Primarily linking the north and south of the country, they are rapidly being restored to their former glory, providing a comfortable and safe way to cross the country.

Several cities, including Lagos, Abuja and Port Harcourt have, or are constructing, light rail monorail systems connecting airports, residential suburbs, and city centres.

There are a number of domestic airlines operating, and standards differ significantly. Some are banned from flying to the EU because of safety concerns. Conditions change quickly, so it’s best to ask around on the ground.

Flights from Nigeria to Europe and the US are often overbooked, so get to the airport as early as you can to secure your seat.

Piracy is a problem in the Gulf of Guinea and must be considered when thinking about taking the ferries that link Calabar with Limbe in Cameroon. (You’ll also need to arrange any visa for Cameroon first – there’s a consulate in Calabar).

River crossings and river journeys are also a potential danger, since vessels are often rudimentary in form, overloaded, and lack lifejackets.

How to deal with corruption and bribes in Nigeria

Nigerians frequently bemoan the levels of corruption in their country, which is officially one of the most corrupt in the world.

Requests for bribes in Nigeria became a way of life during the regime of General Ibrahim Babangida in the 1980s. It became so bad that almost no function was completed without money or gifts in kind being passed from hand to hand.

It remains a way of life, and not difficult to spot when travelling. That said, I paid absolutely zero bribes during my time in the country, although I was asked in various subtle ways. This was mainly around the coastal border between Porto Novo in Benin and Badagry in Nigeria.

It was patience that stopped me having to part with any money most of the time. Ignoring or pretending I didn’t understand the requests also worked. At other times locals around me stopped me being asked for bribes.

Remember that you’re in the legal right, and they in the wrong.

Avoiding scams in Nigeria

Stroll around any town and you’ll see ‘419 this property is not for sale’ sprayed onto the sides of buildings with a stencil. 419 refers to the section of the Nigerian Criminal Code which deals with scams.

Travelling in Nigeria, you’re more likely to come across scams smaller in scale. The most obvious would be in exchanging currency on the black market.

Ensure you know the up-to-date rates, and count the money in your hands yourself. If the dealer takes the cash back from you for any reason, you should count it again. Slight of hand is used to pocket notes.

Another is switching a working CD or DVD with a blank one, or a souvenir you choose for a cheaper version.

Is Nigeria safe?

Don’t be misled into thinking that travelling to Nigeria would be a death wish. Being forewarned about potential dangers takes you most of the way to avoiding them. Look at the US state department’s travel advice for France and you’d think it the most dangerous country in the world. But most travellers enjoy Paris and the French Riviera without issue. However, the usual caveats do apply. This guide is intended as a general guide. It does not replace government advice. Likewise, locals are always the best source of information, so why not start up a conversation with some?