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Equatorial Guinea’s government doesn’t quite seem to know what it wants. Half the time it’s eager to use tourism as a means of developing a country that desperately needs development. The other half, it seems intent on making it as tricky as possible for anyone to visit. What does this mean for the hardy band of travellers who haven’t already been put off? Is Equatorial Guinea safe to visit or not? Find out here.
Where is Equatorial Guinea?
As its name hints, Equatorial Guinea is located close (but not actually on) the equator as it passes through Africa. It lies on central Africa’s Atlantic Ocean coastline, and is divided into two distinct entities.
The first, Rio Muni, sits in a pocket of land surrounded by Gabon to the south and east, and Cameroon to the north.
The second part of the country is the island of Bioko, which sits temptingly close to Limbe in Cameroon. It’s on Bioko that you’ll find the national capital, Malabo. The main city in Rio Muni is Bata.
Background to travelling to Equatorial Guinea
Equatorial Guinea gained its independence from Franco’s Spainish dictatorship in 1968. It’s the only Spanish speaking nation in Africa. Few people in Equatorial Guinea speak French, although it’s one of the country’s official languages and surrounded by Francophone nations.
Since independence, it’s fair to say it hasn’t all been plain sailing. For one thing, there have only ever been two presidents.
The authoritarian rule of the first, Francisco Macias Nguema, lasted 11 years. His nephew overthrew and executed him.
Teodoro Obiang Nguema Mbasogo is the world’s longest serving non-royal leader. He has more than 40 years of rigid rule under his belt and no indication he intends to go quietly any time soon despite constitutional limitations.
As if to underline this fact, his son is First Vice President. Although the country is technically a multiparty democracy, elections almost certainly aren’t a fair fight. His iron grip means public dissent and trouble is rare. On the plus side, this does make Equatorial Guinea’s streets peaceful.
The country also has one of the worst human rights records in the world. It’s up to you whether this makes Equatorial Guinea an acceptable travel destination for you.
Is Equatorial Guinea corrupt?
With huge oil reserves, by rights Equatorial Guinea should be one of the top 25% richest nations in the world.
All the evidence suggests that oil revenue is instead reaching the personal bank accounts of just a few men.
Corruption is pretty much endemic in Equatorial Guinea. As a tourist, you may be shielded from the worst of it. But you may see drivers handing over small folds of money at roadblocks operated by well-armed police and military personnel.
Roadblocks are very common in Equatorial Guinea. However, they should not worry you unnecessary. Be patient and polite, and have your identification to hand.
If you are asked to pay a bribe, you should request an official ticket detailing the offence. This should then be challenged or paid in a local court rather than on the roadside. Officials are only likely to speak Spanish (as well as local languages), and may have a limited reading ability.
Staying safe in Equatorial Guinea’s big cities
If you’ve got this far, there is some good news. Levels of violent crime are very low in Equatorial Guinea by central African standards. Foreigners are targeted in more minor (but still scary) crimes, such as muggings.
You should therefore keep your street smarts honed, and avoid wearing anything particularly flash, whether that’s recognisable clothing brands, watches, or jewellery.
Equally, you should limit the use of electronics such as smartphones or tablet computers to private spaces. Don’t make it obvious you’re unfamiliar with the area, by carrying a guidebook openly for instance.
To get around, especially after dark in big cities such as Malabo and Bata, it’s best to take a trusted private taxi, rather than a shared one from the street. Get a recommendation for a driver from someone on the ground, such as a hotel manager.
How difficult is travel in Equatorial Guinea?
Travel in Equatorial Guinea can be demanding. In theory, leaving either Malabo or Bata requires you to first inform the local authorities (i.e. the police). This law is not always applied.
On the other hand, all major road routes are now surfaced. Unsurfaced rural roads may be unpassable during the wet season, lasting from September to November and February to June, or there abouts.
Public transport does exist, though its quality and safety leave a lot to be desired. Driving while under the influence of alcohol or drugs is relatively common, despite the police now having access to breathalyser technology. Needless to say, you shouldn’t drink and drive, or enter a vehicle with a driver who you believe to be under the influence.
All domestic airlines are deemed so unsafe they are banned from ever entering EU airspace. Bear this in mind if considering the flight between Bioko and Rio Muni.
If you’re looking for flights to the country from outside the region, you’ll be limited to arriving into Malabo’s Saint Isabel Airport (IATA code SSG). You’ll likely have to fly via Paris, Istanbul, Casablanca, or Addis Ababa.
CheapOAir is a trustworhty site for flight options for your given departure dates.
Additional tips for travelling in Equatorial Guinea
You can get into trouble for taking photographs of anything that may be deemed to be protected by national security laws, including police stations, roadblocks, the airport and the presidential palace.
Cash remains the most important way of paying for things. Credit and debit cards can only really be used at airline offices and the big international hotel chains in Malabo and Bata.
ATMs exist in Malabo and Bata for the withdrawal of the local currency, the Central African Franc (XAF). This is fixed to the Euro at 656 XAF, making it one of the continent’s most stable currencies.
It is also used by all Equatorial Guinea’s neighbours, but shouldn’t be confused by the near identical West African Franc (XOF) used in Benin and elsewhere. Not all ATMs function with cards issued internationally.
New series multicoloured US dollars dated from 2017 onwards are best for currency exchange. Make sure your notes are as crisp as they can be, and know the current exchange rate. You’ll generally get a better deal on the street than in banks, but you do so at your own risk. Make sure you have good travel insurance just in case.
Do you need a visa for Equatorial Guinea?
US and Chinese passport holders do not require a visa for tourist trips of less than 90 days. These two nationals are pretty much the only ones outside of the region that are given such leeway.
British, European, Canadian, Australian and New Zealand passport holders will require a visa, and must arrange this before arrival into the country. An eVisa is said to be in the works – but don’t hold your breath – meaning you or an agent is going to have to make the trip to the nearest Equatorial Guinea embassy.
On arrival at either an overland border or at the airport, make sure officials clearly and properly stamp your passport. Travellers have been caught out by ‘improperly’ stamped identification in the past.
Why visit Equatorial Guinea anyway?
Aside from opening your eyes to the way other people live, there are tourist attractions in Equatorial Guinea. The most obvious is the colonial quarter of Malabo, with the Cathedral of Santa Isabel the most striking individual structure. Outside of the city, there’s also the chance to discover one of Equatorial Guinea’s secrets – its cultivation and production of chocolate.
Bioko also has plenty of secluded beaches where turtles are known to nest, although organised tours are difficult to find. They can be visited as part of this full-day cycle tour around Bioko. For untouched nature, there’s nothing better than the hike to the Iladyi Waterfall or to Mount Basilé, the nation’s highest point.
Bata in Rio Muni is also worth some time, if only to absorb the atmosphere. If you’ve not already been exhausted by churches, the Basilica of the Immaculate Conception in Mongomo is the second-largest in Africa.
Midway between the two in Rio Muni you’ll find oddly named Djibloho – Cuidad de la Paz, which is set to be Africa’s newest capital city. Monte Alen National Park offers the opportunity for gorilla and chimpanzee trekking, as does Altos de Nsork National Park in Rio Muni’s south-eastern corner.
Is Equatorial Guinea safe to visit?
Generally speaking, if you’re aware of your surroundings and take normal precautions, Equatorial Guinea is safe to visit. Having said that, I wouldn’t recommend it as one of the best destinations for a first time visit to Africa. If you’re contemplating a visit, be sure to check out the latest travel advice from your government’s foreign ministry.
