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Located between Nigeria, Equatorial Guinea, Chad and the Central African Republic, it would be easy to ask, is Cameroon safe? After all, none of these west and central African states have particularly good track records. Here I separate fact from fiction, having travelled across Cameroon from north to south and east to west.
Safety concerns in Cameroon
Most of the concern relating to safety in Cameroon links back to instability in neighbouring states. Militants loosely allied to fundamentalist Islam have entered the eastern border region from the Central African Republic.
Likewise, Boko Haram militants have crossed into the country’s narrow northern tail, although they are most closely associated with northern Nigeria.
In addition, internal political tensions within Cameroon add to a perceived risk. The English-speaking minority are increasingly vocal regarding apparent oppression from the French-dominated central government. There has been an low-level insurgency in the Anglophone west of the country for some time, but rarely targeting tourists.
What’s more, President Paul Biya has been in power since 1982 – before I was born – and shows no signs of stepping down. Ordinary people across the country are becoming increasingly frustrated by his autocratic rule and alleged theft of the country’s assets.
However, the vast majority of people return from Cameroon with nothing more than good memories and photographs from the summit of Mount Cameroon – west Africa’s highest peak.
Safety in Cameroon’s big cities
Douala lies on the country’s Atlantic Ocean coastline. It’s the economic capital and largest city in the country. It is also the location of the country’s main international airport (and is one of the best places to stock up on English-language books in the region).
You should take the standard precautions for exploring a big city, such as taking taxis after dark and not wearing flashy jewellery.
By contrast, the country’s capital of Yaoundé has the feeling of a small county town. Spaced out, it is located among attractive rolling hills almost exactly east of Douala. This is where you’ll find the embassies of neighbouring states should you need visas for onward travel.
As African capitals go, Yaoundé has got to be one of the safest I’ve visited. It even feels safe. Your biggest risks here are likely to be the deep monsoon drains on roadsides and the lack of continuous pavements.
The Anglophone west
Cameroon is one of the few countries in the world that is a member of the British Commonwealth and the International Organization of Francophone Nations.
Tucked up alongside Nigeria, Cameroon’s two English-speaking regions (very) roughly correspond with what was once British Southern Cameroons.
The region is the home of delightful Limbe, with its botanic gardens and Wildlife Centre, and Buea, gateway to Mount Cameroon.
Theoretically, the anglophone minority have equal rights under the law with the French majority. However, over the last couple of years there has been increasing feeling of repression. This has led to demands for devolution, if not outright independence under the Ambazonian flag.
Sometimes this has led to violent confrontations between authorities and protestors. Strikes have become a common tactic to demonstrate dissatisfaction. While western assets, such as oil platforms, have been targeted, tourists are not.
The most obvious mark of the low-level troubles while travelling are the numerous checkpoints and roadblocks operated by the military. But it also means you should take care if boarding the ferry between Limbe and Calabar in Nigeria.
While I rounded the Bakassi Peninsula without incident, there are some pretty scary tales of similar journeys doing the rounds.
Is it safe to visit Cameroon?
It’s easy to be put off from visiting Cameroon because of news reports and scare stories. Travel to nowhere can be ever considered 100% safe, and Cameroon does have its troubles. It’s important to remember that tourists are generally not targeted. Because of this, it’s difficult to warn potential travellers against heading to Cameroon and exploring all the country has to offer.
