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For those in the know (and with money in their pockets), Botswana is one of the top safari destinations around. A vast, sparsely populated land, a full 17% is dedicated to wildlife preservation. You can add to this a growing emphasis on the country’s human culture and heritage. But at more than twice the size of the UK, how many days do you need in Botswana?
How long should you spend in Botswana?
On the face of it, you might think just a couple of days in Botswana is enough. This would give you enough time to slip across the border from Victoria Falls to safari in Chobe National Park. You can even do it in just one day.
However, that’s about it. Botswana hides its light under a bushel. The issue is therefore not so much the size of the country. Driving in Botswana is a dream with well-maintained roads ideal for self-drive Botswana itineraries. The issue is just how many things to do in Botswana there are. As well as Chobe, there’s the Okavango Delta, Nxai and Makgadikgadi Pans, Gabarone, and the central Kalahari.
I’d therefore suggest a Botswana itinerary of around 10 days. Even if you’re travelling by public transport like I did, a 10 day Botswana itinerary will give you enough time to check out all the main sights.
Below I’ve outlined my ideal 10 day Botswana itinerary. You can also easily expand it to a 14 day Botswana itinerary, or reduce it to a 7 day itinerary. As I’ve already suggested though, I wouldn’t recommend anywhere much below the 10 day itinerary mark.
My 10 day Botswana itinerary
Days 1 & 2: Chobe National Park
Since many travellers arrive from Victoria Falls or the Caprivi Strip, that’s where I begin my 10 day Botswana itinerary. You can mix it up and start anywhere, including Gaborone, depending on how and where you enter the country.
Pain-free border formalities completed, aim for the town of Kasane, in Botswana’s northeastern corner. The town itself isn’t of huge interest, but acts as the main gateway to Chobe National Park.
The best accommodation options lie on the southern bank of the Chobe River. They often have private viewing platforms on the river for a sundowner. Sedudu Gate, Chobe’s primary entrance point, is just a short drive away.
On your first day, take a sunset river cruise. I missed out because I thought they were just about attractive lighting and romance. It turns out they’re mini safaris, with huge animal numbers coming down to the river at this time of day.
Avoid staying up too late, since it’s going to be a very early start on day two. The gates of Chobe National Park open at 6 am, so game drives leave Kasane way before dawn. If you’re self-driving, it’s worth hanging back for half an hour to avoid the rush as the gates open.
Chobe is one of the best places in Africa to see the Big Five. That said, guides will normally ask if you’ve got any particular animals you’re keen to sight and photograph. Game drives also take place in the afternoon, when animals tend to gather to cool off on the riverfront.
Day 3: Francistown
Botswana’s sparse road network makes it quite hard to get anywhere directly. While there’s a fleet of small planes available if you’re that way inclined, I don’t think you can beat travelling by road. Especially when you’ve got a surprisingly high chance of seeing antelope and elephant on the road to Francistown via Nata.
There’s a ridiculous amount of accommodation to choose from, plus the Supa Ngwao Museum. Small in size and big on photographs, the museum found its permanent home in one of Francistown’s oldest buildings. It probably won’t blow you away, but does provide a helpful introduction to the city.
Day 4: Gaborone
If it’s running, the best way to get between Francistown and Gaborone has to be on the rails. Taking about 10 hours (far more than by road), it travels overnight in both directions through a landscape of verdant scrub or golden grasses, dependent on the season. There are sleeper cars, alongside standard seats and a buffet car.
The train station is to the south of Gaborone’s centre, close to major international hotel brands such as Hilton and Protea. There are plenty of banks if you’re in need of cash, and malls for shopping. Founded in 1964, Gaborone is low on major attractions. It’s business-like air (the centre is dominated by government ministries) is lightened by some great food (mopane worms anyone?) and the National Museum and Art Gallery.
Day 5 & 6: Central Kalahari Game Reserve
The usual way to reach Central Kalahari Game Reserve is from Maun. This is the place to head for tours if you don’t have your own transport.
However, coming from the south, and with adventure in mind, it’s possible to reach the reserve via Ghanzi to Tsau or Xade gates. You can then travel across the reserve (larger than Switzerland) to Matswere Gate and on to Maun. It’s all off road, so be sure to be proficient with a 4×4 and know the best time to visit.
When it comes to what you’ll see, don’t expect Sahara-like sands. The Kalahari is the greenest desert I’ve ever seen. Deception Valley is the most popular destination within the reserve, and best explored at the start or end of the day due to the otherwise harsh natural light.
You won’t encounter the sort of scenes of Chobe, with wildlife much more spread out. At the same time, the straggly bush hides everything from black-maned lions and a high cheetah population to hardy antelope including oryx (gemsbok) and springbok.
Days 7 & 8: Nxai and Makgadikgadi Pans national parks
These two national parks span either side of the road between Maun and Nata. This makes them much easier to explore than Central Kalahari. Protecting the largest salt pans in the world, their surreal landscapes are just one reason to spend part of a 10-day Botswana itinerary here.
Particularly after the rains, peaking in January and February, the pans are home to species from elephant to zebra. Its all part of a massive migration route between the Okavango Delta and Zimbabwe’s Hwange National Park. But lions, kudu and desert-adapted species like bat-eared foxes can be seen throughout the year.
In Nxai Pans National Park you’ll also want to take in Baines Baobabs, a series of ancient baobab trees beside a waterhole favoured by lions.
Days 9 – 11: Okavango Delta
In my view, you can’t visit Botswana without heading to the Okavango Delta. In fact, I think it’s the reason to head to Botswana over Zimbabwe, Zambia or South Africa. That’s why I’ve saved the best till last.
You should spend a minimum of 2 days and 1 night in the Okavango Delta. Two nights in the Okavango Delta is better. If you’ve got a vehicle, you’ll want to lock it up and leave it – the Okavango is all about its waterways. There are a great range of multi-day tours available. Most are all-inclusive, so you’ve nothing to worry about.
Flooding to take in 15,000 square kilometres of the Kalahari Desert, the Okavango is almost unique. One of the only inland deltas in the world, its channels through the reeds and water hyacinth have been carved out by hippo.
Often only knee or waist deep, these channels have become a haven and heaven for the region’s wildlife. Alongside hippos, elephants and crocs are major species to look out for when punting around the delta on traditional mokoro canoes.
Most tours also include guided walks on Chief’s Island, a reserve long before the Okavango obtained its international reputation. Here you have a good chance of encountering buffalo and giraffe, while rhino and lion also inhabit the region.
End your 10 day itinerary in Botswana back in Maun. It’s international airport has flights to Gaborone, Cape Town and Johannesburg among other destinations. But if you’ve got a couple of hours free, check out the Okavango Gin distillery. Using water from the delta, I’ve heard great things about it.
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