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If you’re thinking about a visit to Comoros, you’re considering heading to one of Africa’s least-visited nations. But the country’s lack of tourists has more to do with so few knowing of its existence, rather than any negative reasons. What can you expect from Comoros tourist attractions? Here are my personal thoughts after my visit to the Comoros Islands.
Is Comoros a good place to visit?
Comoros, officially the Union of the Comoros, is an independent nation state located in the Indian Ocean between the northern parts of Mozambique and Madagascar.
Once part of the Kingdom of Imerina (Madagascar), it was colonised by the French in the second half of the 1800s. It gained independence in 1975.
The country comprises three islands, Grande Comore (Ngazidja), Mohéli (Mwali), and Anjouan (Nzwani). Each has its own character and reason to visit. A fourth, Mayotte, remains an overseas department of France. This is despite calls for the island to be part of Comoros.
The influence of a century of France’s rule is otherwise best demonstrated through the use of French as one of the main languages of the islands. Arabic and Comorian (or Shikomoro – closely related to Swahili) are also recognised equally under the country’s 2001 constitution.
Independent travel to Comoros
Although I was surprised by the number of people who spoke some English, I think travel to Comoros would be difficult without knowing at least some French.
I was travelling on Intrepid’s new 8-day Comoros: Wildlife Expedition tour so all my transport was sorted. Independent travellers I bumped into (there are some!) made it clear transport was another potential sticky spot. There are plenty of taxi drivers willing to be hired out for the day, but getting them to stick to agreed prices and itineraries sounds like a tough task at present.
Instead, you might consider making use of the country’ only true tour operator, Adore Comores. Since they are involved with arranging the Intrepid tour, I can personally vouch for their professionalism. Over the 8 days, their team (of John and Issa in particular) were unflappable. Even when internal flights were cancelled and other potential problems were thrown into the works.
Hotel options are also limited on the islands. On Grande Comore, that means you’re more than likely to find yourself overnighting at the Golden Tulip. Luxury rooms face the sunset, and most have balconies. Bungalows are situated on the opposite side of the small private beach. They offer greater amounts of space and have a more private feel.
Both types of room could do with a paint job, but the presence of giant tortoises makes up for this. The hotel lies between Moroni, the national capital, and the international airport further north.
On Mohéli, Laka Lodge is the centre of tourist operations, and with good reasons. Located on the island’s southern coastline in the village of Nioumachaoua, its operation runs like clockwork. Its beach-view chalets are basic (bed, en suite, table, chair, veranda) but perfectly formed. Its list of potential daily activities is vast. This includes everything from waterfall treks to whale-watching trips.
Reasons to visit Comoros
Tourism is still in its infancy on Comoros. The best time to visit Comoros is therefore now – to discover its three islands before the rest of the world does. Failing that, June to October are the months to visit Comoros.
Flight prices tend to be highest in August, coinciding with the country’s period of ‘big’ weddings – an impressive event if you manage to catch one. December to April is not considered a good time to visit Comoros due to the high humidity levels and chance of heavy rain.
I visited at the start of October, and experienced temperatures in the high twenties Celsius. Although there were a few spots of rain, my anorak remained firmly in my bag.
Despite its end of the world feel, getting to Comoros from the UK, Europe, or North America is surprisingly easy. Both Kenya Airways and Ethiopian Airlines have regular flights to the international airport on Grande Comore via their hubs of Nairobi and Addis Ababa.
You can also pick up a visa on arrival without much fuss on Grande Comore, meaning you do not need to apply for visa for Comoros before travel.
Internal flights and informal ‘ferry’ services then connect Grande Comore to Mohéli and Anjouan, as well as Mayotte.
Why visit Comoros? What can you expect from these unadulterated islands? The largest of the islands, Grande Comore is also the youngest. Formed from volcanic eruptions, smoke still wafts from the country’s highest peak – the 2,361 m Mount Karthala.
That said, Comoros is very safe. Scientific stations around Grande Comore monitor seismic activity, and the last time there was an eruption (in the 1970s), no one lost their lives.
While on the subject of safety, I found Comoros incredibly welcoming. We were told to keep valuables locked in bags and suitcases in hotel rooms just in case. But at no point did I feel threatened, even when walking through the busy Volo Volo market in Moroni.
Tourist attractions on Grande Comore
When it comes to the top sights on Grande Comore, they focus mainly on cultural attractions. Think of it as you would Stone Town, Zanzibar. Moroni’s ancient heart is worth exploring. But do it with a guide or you’ll miss an incredible amount. The National Museum is also worth delving into.
Elsewhere, the ancient capital of Iconi, just south of Moroni, is an obvious attraction for history and culture lovers too. Its highlights include a ruined Sultan’s Palace, and traditional open air community meeting places.
On the north of Grande Comore, attractions turn natural. Don’t miss the Dragon’s Back (Dos du Dragon) rock formation, Lac Salé, or the Trou Du Prophète, which is a sublime piece of real estate for a lunch stop.
Top sights on Mohéli
If Grande Comore is all about culture, Mohéli is defined by its beaches and wildlife. Almost the entire island (over 81% of it) and its surrounding waters were designated a national park in 2010. That’s because the government recognized the importance of the island to a whole host of animal species.
On land, species range from the sublime to the ridiculous. For one thing, you find some of the only wild lemurs outside of Madagascar. Introduced to the island about a hundred years ago and now endemic, Mohéli’s mongoose lemurs are actually best seen at Laka Lodge.
But delve into the forests around Ouallah village, and you’ll also be able to see the fourth largest bat species in the world. Incredibly rare, and critically endangered, Livingstone’s fruit bats only live on Mohéli and Anjouan. Be warned that you won’t get too close though, since they tend to rest in the tallest of the island’s trees.
Meanwhile, on the water, the attractions begin with corals easily accessible just offshore for snorkelling trips. Slightly further out, humpback whales are a regular sighting. On my whale watching trip I encountered three different groups, resting, swimming, and breaching.
Dolphins are another common sighting, while manta rays skim the surface for plankton and coelacanths roam the depths. If it wasn’t for Comoran fishermen it’s a fish which the world would still consider nothing but a fossil. This old Channel 4 documentary is worth a watch to learn more.
Linking land and sea are Comoros’ green and hawksbill turtles. Green turtles are the easiest to see, with Mohéli being one of the only places in the world where they are known to come ashore to lay their eggs pretty much every night of the year.
A community-run lodge at Istamia on the eastern side of Mohéli is the perfect place to spend the night. That way you can not only see the mature females lay their eggs, but have a good chance of joining a turtle guardian as they escort new hatchlings to the tideline too.
Tourist attractions on Anjouan Island
The third of Comoros’ three main islands (there are various uninhabited islets too), Anjouan is probably best known for its flora rather than its fauna.
However, that’s not to say that you won’t find an incredible spread of plant species on Grande Comore and Mohéli too. Look out, in particular, for the long off-white flower petals of ylang-ylang trees. Their essential oils go into some of the world’s finest perfumes, including Chanel No 5.
Other important exports for the islands include vanilla. Bananas, pineapples, papaya, and corrosol (soursop) are all grown in allotments tended by individual families and regularly make it onto dessert plates. Coconuts aren’t hard to find either, with their flesh going into an irresistible dish called madaba alongside green leaves (usually of cassava), chili, and salt. It’s generally served with rice.
Mount Ntringui National Park provides a fascinating contrast to what is Comoros’ most-populous island. The largest area of remaining forest on Anjouan, you’ll have another chance to catch sight of Livingstone’s fruit bats, as well as mongoose lemurs and Anjouan scops owl.
If that wasn’t enough, Mount Ntringui is Anjouan’s highest peak, while the park also encompasses the lush surrounds of Lake Dzialandzé, a beautiful volcanic crater lake.
Is Comoros good for tourists?
If you’re looking for the sort of Indian Ocean escape which comprises little more than sun-soaked sands and cocktails poolside, Comoros probably isn’t for you. Although these things are possible, there’s so much more to these tiny islands that a fly and flop holiday to Comoros would frankly be a waste. However, if you’re keen to explore one of the world’s least known nations, its culture, flora, and fauna, I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend Comoros.
