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Eswatini (aka Swaziland) is perhaps southern Africa’s sleeping giant. Tucked between South Africa and Mozambique, the best things to do in Eswatini can be overshadowed by the enormity of its neighbours. However, I found an impressive array of attractions to keep myself busy, all within one of Africa’s most laid-back countries. Promising everything from safaris to one-of-a-kind cultural events, Eswatini is way more than simply the chance to get another stamp in your passport… These are my pick of Eswatini’s unmissable sights.
1. Summit Sheba’s Breast
Most easily reached from Johannesburg, a 4.5 hour drive away, the obvious starting point for any exploration of Eswatini is the Ezulwini Valley (the aptly named ‘valley of heaven’). Just a short, perfect road away from the Oshoek border post with South Africa, the valley is a dazzling introduction to the country’s verdant hills. It’s also a much better option than the capital, nice-but-not-wholly-interesting Mbabane.
One of the most beautiful places in Swaziland, the Ezulwini Valley is as cool in climate as it is in ambience. A favourite with the few backpackers who make it into Swaziland, it’s a lovely place to relax with like minded people. Together with the good range of places to stay, you might end up lingering longer than intended.
In which case, lazy breakfasts and evening beers aside, you’ll want something to fill your days. The hill known as Sheba’s Breast definitely fits the bill. Situated immediately behind Lidwala Backpacker Lodge (a little more laid back and ‘mature’ than Legends down the road), the path to Sheba’s Breast begins in forest.
There are a couple of wooden ladders to tackle, but no other major difficulties leading to the grassy areas beyond the treeline. Here it was just me, the swifts, swallows, and circling eagles. Bliss.
2. Explore the cultural heritage of Lobamba
Where the Eluzwini Valley celebrates the natural beauty of Eswatini, Lobamba is big on culture and heritage. Neither the capital nor the biggest city in the country, it’s rich in tradition thanks to the fact it’s the site of Ludzindzini Palace.
The home of the Swazi royal family is only be open to the public on special occasions. But there is still more than enough to keep most visitors entertained in Lobamba. And since there’s no real accommodation option at present, it’s an obvious add-on for those staying in the Eluzwini Valley. I walked it in around an hour, though a taxi will get you between the two in almost no time at all.
What will you find in Lobamba when you get there? First head to the National Museum, whose grounds contain examples of traditional architecture and galleries are filled with fabrics, musical instruments, and other historic treasures. It can get warm inside – so take a fan of some sort.
When you’re finished there, head across the road to King Sobhuza II Memorial Park. This mausoleum of the former king (ruling from 1899, at four months old, until 1982) also contains a small museum. It features a selection of old photos, which always draw my eye.
3. Do the Big Five safari thing (almost)
On the opposite side of the country from the Eluzwini Valley and Lobamba lies Hlane Royal National Park. It’s one of several wildlife destinations in Eswatini worth considering. It’s technically held in trust for the country by the current king, His Majesty Mswati III, having been a private hunting ground for the royal family prior to its creation in 1967.
The king has handed the everyday running of the park over to Big Game Parks, who take their responsibility for Eswatini’s largest national park very seriously. Taking its name from the siSwati word for wilderness, Hlane features four of the Big Five. Only Cape buffalo are missing.
Much more affordable than nearby national parks including South Africa’s Kruger, the park is open to self-drive safaris, although you’ll have to take a guided game drive for the chance to encounter its lions.
4. Try your hand at Swazi crafts in the Malkerns Valley
The Malkerns Valley is known locally and internationally for two things. The first is its agricultural pedigree – the area’s pineapples are first class. The second is crafts and handiwork – as close to tourist attractions in Manzini as you’ll get.
Weaving is probably the most common craft you’ll come across in Malkerns, with plenty of options to buy the items which result from the exquisite talent of local craftspeople often living very simple lives.
But it’s hard to argue against Swazi Candles being the star of the show. A name now known across the world, Swazi Candles began with a duo from South Africa making use of an empty cowshed. The company is today a social enterprise employing 45 women, largely local women.
Not only is there the chance to buy their offerings direct, but also the opportunity to join candlemakers in their workshop. Part of the secret of their success is undoubtedly that everything remains handmade using ancient millefiori glass techniques to produce finished candles with a distinctly southern African flair.
5. Dodge the crocs at Mantenga Waterfall
Mantenga Waterfall isn’t going to win any competitions against the likes of Victoria Falls further north. However, even if it wasn’t Eswatini’s largest waterfall by volume, it would still be an impressive place to relax and enjoy a picnic.
The falls are accessed via the main gate off Mantenga Village, the recreation of a traditional Swazi homestead. From here it’s just a short stroll, with plenty of views towards the falls down the narrow valley.
Beside the pool at the base of the falls are several picnic benches, alongside a ‘beware of crocodile’ sign. You have been warned. Elsewhere, there’s plenty of birdlife, and a troop of monkeys which I managed to get pretty close to.
While visiting the falls it’s well worth taking a guided tour of Mantenga Village too. My guide Paul (actually Mbuluzi) did a great job of detailing everyday life in days gone by. It was a time when a man, his wives, children, and other relatives each had three reed-thatch huts clustered beside one another.
6. Witness the Umhlanga Reed Dance
As a demonstration of just how important reeds are to Swazi society, Eswatini’s biggest cultural event of the year has them at its core.
The Umhlanga Reed Dance is an annual celebration with dates which hover around September of each year. A treasure trove of tradition dating back centuries, the festival sees the country’s unmarried and childless women (i.e. virgins in Swazi culture) present the year’s new reeds to the Queen Mother – the Indlovukazi, or ‘great she-elephant.’
They are presented alongside traditional song and dance, having been cut from the river bank by women in traditional Swazi attire. In other words, short brightly-coloured kilt-like skirts made of beads together with colourful sashes across their torsos. The reeds are then used to reconstruct the guma (fences) around the Queen Mother’s Lobamba residence.
Don’t worry if you hear that the festival has already been going on for a few days. Only the last couple of days are open to outsiders.
7. Walk with wildebeest at Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary
Mirroring the poacher turned game keeper ethos of animal conservation, Mlilwane is a farm turned wildlife sanctuary. The change came in the 1960s, when Eswatini was gearing up for independence from the United Kingdom, creating then-Swaziland’s first wildlife refuge in the process.
Predator-free, Mlilwane goes beyond the organized game drives and self-drive safaris by also allowing independent walks. There are even a relatively-well marked series of short routes cut into the grasses of its rolling plains.
Encountering a wildebeest face to face for the first time without their being a vehicle in between was quite a startling experience for the both of us. They are huge animals up close, as are the buck, zebra and even the warthog which occupy the grass area in front of the headquarters, shop, and restaurant.
Sondzela Trail circles ponds popular with all manner of birdlife, with black and white ibis feeding in shallows close to trees dripping with the nests of weaver birds. The Hippo Trail was less of a success, given I didn’t see any hippos.
Like all safaris, the best place to see the wildlife is by the entrance, in other words, on the Shallows Trail. Just a few hundred metres long, the wildlife here is so numerous some South African holidaymakers suggest the antelope, zebra, and wildebeest have been nailed to the ground to ensure a good photo opportunity. The trail also leads past an astonishing number of snares discovered by park officials.
8. See your favourite bands at MTN Bushfire
Taking place every May on Malandela’s Farm in the Malkerns, the MTN Bushfire Festival is one of the top music festivals on the continent. Designed to give the region an economic boost, it now attracts around 20,000 of three days of music and dance.
Fully socially responsible, all the profits are directed to two local charities. One is Young Heroes, supporting orphans in the country. The other is Gone Rural assisting rural women by selling their handicrafts internationally. So while you’re living your best life, you know you’re doing a whole load of good too.
For the ticket price of MTN Bushfire you get the authentic festival camping experience, only without the risk of rain. Meanwhile, its stages are occupied by an impressive roster of primarily-African artists you’ll be desperate to know better by festival end.
9. Raft along the Lusuftu River
Back in the east of the country, you can undertake what must be one of Eswatini’s most adrenaline inducing activities. Beyond coming nose to nose with a wildebeest that is. Head for the Bulungapoort section of the Lusuftu (or Usutu River) for white water rafting through narrow gorges and across tranquil flats.
Generally using two-person inflatable kayaks (without one of those people being a guide), you have to be expert enough on the water to tackle grade III rapids. If you are, the reward is an almost unique way of slipping through the country, testing your mettle, and seeing some extraordinary landscapes along the way.
Swazi Trails do tours lasting half or full days on the water, and come with all the safety gear you’ll need too.
Best things to do in Eswatini
Don’t make the mistake of planning just a day trip to Eswatini from South Africa. The country has just too much to offer to make this anything but a teaser to all you’re missing. Instead, Eswatini deserves at least a week of your time, in which you can do everything from hiking and rafting to safaris and candle-making.
