Benin in west Africa doesn’t get a lot – or enough – publicity. Which can make it difficult to know whether it is safe to visit or not.
Culturally rich, it’s the birthplace of voodoo, and the homeland of one of Africa’s fiercest tribes. It also played a significant role in the history of the transatlantic slave trade.
Benin is laid-back yet sophisticated, liberated but with just the right amount of governance to ensure everyone does their job properly. Alive with colour and a sometimes-perplexing litany of traditions, nothing is quite what it seems. Catholic cathedrals can be mosques, while Chambers of Commerce can hide ancient shrines.
But don’t think Benin is only the preserve of culture vultures. Though long and narrow, the country boasts some astounding Atlantic Ocean beaches. And in the north, you can head out on safari almost as easily as in Kenya or South Africa.
Benin and the transatlantic slave trade
Draw a simplistic image of an arm leading up from the elbow to a clenched fist. You have something resembling the outline of Benin. Located between Togo to the west and Nigeria to the east, its northern borders are met by Burkina Faso and Niger.
Its beaches lie within the Bight of Biafra – also called the Bight of Benin. In former times, this area of West Africa was also known as the Slave Coast. This is opposed to the Gold Coast (Ghana) or Ivory Coast (Côte d’Ivoire).
This means Benin’s pre-independence history is heavy with the lasting affects of the transatlantic slave trade. The trade attracted European colonisers to the area. But it also led to some tribes fleeing to the waters of Lake Nokoué to avoid capture.
Here the Tofinu people formed a new life for themselves as far from slave hunters as they could get. Today, their town of Ganvié is celebrated as the ‘Venice of Africa’ and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Colonisation of Benin
The southeast of Benin was for many centuries the ancestral territory of the much-feared Fon. It’s here that you’ll find Benin’s modern economy and industry based. The tranquil surrounds of the capital Porto-Novo, and the main city of Cotonou, are both found here.
Most closely associated with French colonisation, Benin remains a francophone nation. However, it was the Portuguese who made the first major forays, as the capital’s lusophone name might suggest.
The Portuguese foothold into what would become Benin took place as early as 1680. It began with the construction of the Fort of Saint John the Baptist in Ouidah. This remained Portuguese property right up until 1975, 15 years after the rest of the country claimed independence from France.
Still standing today as a relic and museum to this time, the fort was garrisoned by a single officer and just a handful of soldiers. It held the record for the smallest colony anywhere in the world.
The kingdom of Dahomey
During the French period of rule, which began in the 1890s, Benin was known as Dahomey. It was a name that would linger on until 1975. This came from the Kingdom of Dahomey, a powerful nation that lasted for 300 years.
Their capital was Abomey, now a key site for tours to the country. The kingdom had a fearsome reputation, and were known (or at least reported) to kill hundreds of prisoners of war at regular festivals as blood sacrifices to the ancestral gods.
These actions are the first recorded acts associated with the voodoo religion – more correctly referred to as Vodun. Still practiced by a significant proportion of the population, it has little to do with the voodoo of the movies.
The truth behind voodoo
Fetishes and idols are still relatively easy to find, living side by side with churches and mosques. The Beninoise are just as likely to head to the witch doctor as the white-coated kind.
Meaning ‘spirit’ in Fon, Vodun is not a religion of black magic. An animist religion, the vodun spirits need regular offerings and feeding. They inhabit fetishes, which can be simple or elaborate figures. Nails and metalwork are thought to channel their power, while blood sacrifices – now usually from a chicken – keep them strong.
Vodun reached the Americas, and Haiti, where it’s most particularly associated, via the transatlantic slave trade. The idea that slaves would forget their past lives was clearly a failure.
Benin guide to safaris
While not known as a safari destination, highlights of Benin’s animal world include the transfrontier Reserve du W du Niger, as well as Pendjari National Park.
Together, they are important protected areas for West Africa’s wildlife – once as prolific as that in southern and eastern Africa. Elephants, giraffe, lion, and hippos are all thankfully managing to cling on here.
These parks lie in the country’s northern reaches, well away from the major population centres on the coast. The heat in the north is drier than the humid south, which means an umbrella can bring the temperature down several degrees.
If you travel to Benin between April and July or September to November, you’ll need an umbrella for very different reasons. The country’s two wet seasons, things here can get wet here very quickly. They make travel across the country particularly difficult.
Is it safe to visit Benin?
Benin is one of West Africa’s most stable democracies. Its record for safety makes it a good place to begin exploring a region often considered to be volatile and dangerous. What’s more, Benin’s small size and good road network makes it one of Africa’s easiest nations to discover.
In the south, you should feel free to wander without issue during daylight hours. That said, travel in groups whenever possible, and avoid empty areas. Also keep an eye out from shrines and sacred groves strangers aren’t allowed to enter. You don’t want to cause offence inadvertently.
Places such as Porto Novo and Ouidah are very relaxed. Cotonou is a little more ‘big city,’ so keep your wits about you. Use taxis or other forms of transport after dark wherever you are, to be on the safe side.
If you’re seeking a couple of days of R&R on Benin’s beaches, stick to the busiest, and make sure you leave before nightfall. That’s when they can start to get menacing. Don’t even consider camping overnight on them. The Atlantic Ocean’s currents can be strong – stick to the shallows and resist the temptation to swim. There are no lifeguard services.
The further north you travel, the tougher travel in Benin tends to get. At the same time, the welcome becomes much more authentic too. It’s always a good idea to stay away from areas immediately around Benin’s international borders. The exception here is visits to W and Pendjari national parks.
Benin guide
If you haven’t heard much of Benin before, that’s likely to be because it’s a stable multi-party democracy. But this small slither of land within the enormity of West Africa has a lot to offer as this Benin guide shows. In addition to intriguing relics of former ages, mile after mile of quiet Atlantic sands beckon. And that’s before any mention of the chance to see elephant and lion in their natural habitats.
