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Senegal is many people’s first introduction to sub-Saharan Africa after crossing the arid expanses of Mauritania. The semi-desert landscapes of the north blend effortlessly into dense tropical jungle. A trio of rivers – the Senegal, Saloum and Casamance – wind their way to Atlantic beaches and lugubrious wetlands. And a vibrant culture spanning centuries combines with chimp-spotting to create a destination which is hard to beat. Here’s my selection of the best 9 things to do in Senegal.
1. Listen to jazz in the historic heart of Saint-Louis
Saint-Louis was born for the jazz age, though its history goes right back to the 1650s.
The first French settlement in west Africa, it was built on a pre-existing Wolof community on an island in the Senegal River.
It soon became capital of France’s colonial possessions in the region, a title it held right up until 1902.
A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2000, its island heart is reached by the nineteenth century iron-made Pont Faidherbe bridge.
Largely free of traffic, the island is small enough to cover on foot. That said, Senegal’s sticky heat means taking a horse and cart around the numbered trail of historical attractions is a better bet.
Stops include the old governor’s palace, Rognat Casernes buildings, cathedral and small Place Faidherbe gardens.
Atmospheric at any time of year, the aging brickwork really comes into its own during the annual jazz festival.
It occupies pretty much the entire city, from bars and clubs, to galleries and streets. It also welcomes some of the greatest contemporary performers of the genre, making it one of my coolest festivals in Africa.
2. Go chimp spotting in Parc National de Niokolo-Koba
Senegal’s potential as a wildlife destination is sometimes overlooked. However, in the far south east of the country lies what might be its saving grace, Parc National de Niokolo-Koba.
At more than 3,500 square miles (9,000 square kilometres), Niokolo-Koba rivals better-known names in east Africa when it comes to size.
And while you won’t find its residents quite so prolific or easy to spot on a casual three hour safari, there’s still plenty to recommend it.
Nothing beats waking to the sound of chattering monkeys or wallowing hippos. Meanwhile, get out and about and you’ve then got the chance to encounter some 70 mammal species.
These include elephant, lion, leopard and buffalo – just a rhino away from making Niokolo-Koba a Big Five park.
On top of that, there’s the allure of (admittedly hard to find) chimpanzees. And a bird list which would put Noah’s ark to shame.
3. Take in the view from the Monument of African Renaissance
Controversy has shrouded the Monument of African Renaissance, a short distance outside of Dakar, since it was envisaged by then President Wade in the early 2000s.
Many (probably rightly) thought the money could be better spent elsewhere – such as on housing needy families in the capital.
Others balked at the idea of Senegal cosying up to North Korea, whose artisans were the ones who constructed this 50 metre (160 foot) tall bronze monolith.
After all, Senegal has an excellent history of artisanship, as a trip to any museum in the country will quickly testify.
The fact remains that the Monument of African Renaissance exists, and is difficult to ignore.
Taking the form of an African male holding aloft a child in one arm while supporting a woman with the other, it is Africa’s tallest freestanding statue.
Built to commemorate a half-century of independence from France in 2010, visitors are able to rise to the top of the man’s kufi cap.
Here there’s an internal viewing platform which provides a great spot for taking in the entirety of Dakar from above.
4. Explore Senegal’s breakaway region of Casamance
A trouble spot for decades, it seems the era of national army personal standing beside truck-mounted machine guns at major road junctions in Casamance may be over.
Rebels (the MFDC or Movement of Democratic Forces in Casamance, in French) and central government figures recently agreed to an end of hostilities.
Separated from much of Senegal by The Gambia, the MFDC had argued that Casamance was being ignored by government.
It is certainly a region very different from areas around Dakar. Its provincial capital, Ziguinchor, feels much more laid back than Dakar, and less crowded that Saint-Louis.
And this is despite having a population closing in on 250,000 people.
The landscapes which surround it are also quite apart. Rice paddies replace dusty roadside fields, and churches outnumber mosques.
In short, Casamance is a region now ripe for exploration, with small welcoming villages and ageless watery vistas.
Travellers wanting a break from hard travel need look no further than coastal Cap Skirring.
It’s a reliable place to spend a weekend (or weekday) enjoying decent accommodation, good food, and peaceful beaches.
5. Delve into Senegalese history on Gorée Island
Goreé Island (or Île de Goreé) is a tiny pinprick of land a short ferry journey away from central Dakar.
Another of Senegal’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites, the island is just half a mile (900 metres) long by around a quarter of a mile (350 metres) wide.
Yet it has played a role in the history of the region and its people immeasurably bigger.
One of Europe’s first footholds on the continent, the Portuguese arrived as early as 1450, two generations before Christopher Columbus crossed the ocean blue.
Claimed at one point or other by all the major European powers, this previously uninhabited island without a source of fresh water hosted Portuguese, Dutch, English and French sailors.
Sadly, it’s strategic position off the west coast of Africa made it a significant player in the transatlantic slave trade.
It’s difficult to get lost wandering the cluster of car-free streets, though the view from the hill at the centre of the island can help you get your bearings.
From there it’s only a short stroll between the old warehouses of the harbourfront and sights including the Maison des Esclaves (House of Slaves).
This modest-in-proportions pink-hued structure was used as a holding site for slaves awaiting transport. It contains a Door of No Return through which slaves departed their home continent.
6. Soak up the atmosphere in Joal-Fadiout
Situated at the southern end of the road from Mbour, Joal-Fadiout isn’t any ordinary Senegalese town.
Part of the country’s Petite Côte region, this twin towns of Joal and Fadiout have largely let the last century go by without it interfering much in local life.
This sense is only enhanced by the lack of motor vehicles beyond the main road. But distances are never far between mainland Joal and sibling island community of Fadiout.
The latter is undoubtedly the most interesting of the two, since it was built on what must be billions of clam and oyster shells.
They crunch beneath the feet of passers-by, while fishermen continue their long tradition of days on the brackish channels which blend mangrove and ocean.
When it comes to things to see and do in Joal-Fadiout, it’s all about the unique setting. Another centre of Christianity in majority Muslim Senegal, don’t be surprised if you encounter free-roaming pigs. They particularly enjoy looking for crabs at low tide.
Human visitors can instead take a turn around this small village. It includes a charming church with a baobab said to be 800 years old.
7. Discover the collections of Dakar’s IFAN museum
Invariably known as the IFAN Musée de Dakar and the Théodore Monad African Art Museum, this well-curated space is easily one of west Africa’s best cultural museums.
Covering the culture of tribes from across west Africa, Senegal’s occupy no more exhibition space than any other.
Well-lit and displayed, there’s a beautiful array of ornaments, trinkets and objects from everyday life. They range from drums and handwoven cloths to musical instruments and masks.
The museum is also one of several locations used for the Dak’Art Dakar Biennale, showcasing the best of contemporary African and diaspora art.
It’s usually held between May and June in even numbered years.
8. Snap an image of Lac Rose for Instagram
Close enough to Dakar to make for an arresting detour if you’ve got a few hours spare, Lac Rose takes its name from the colouring of its water.
Also known as Lake Retba, its water can undergo a full spectrum of pinks. But it does depend on the time of year.
Sometimes it’s a mellow pastel pink which looks like a trick of the light or an early sunset. At other times it can look so vivid as to appear artificial or digitally altered.
Lac Rose’s unusually colouring is best during the dry season. This lasts from November until May. The pinky hues are less obvious the rest of the year.
The lake’s pink colouring comes from the presence of a certain species of algae, although swimming is considered okay.
Parts of the lake are also given over to artisanal salt extraction. This is because salinity levels hit 40% in some places due to the presence of the Atlantic just over the dunes.
9. Flit with the flamingos at Parc National des Oiseaux du Djoudj
Parc National des Oiseaux du Djoudj comprises wetlands which are attractive to migrating birds which have made the long journey across the Sahara.
Known as Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary in English, it spans some 60 square miles (160 square km) on the southern bank of the river Senegal.
Welcoming between 300 and 400 different bird species (no one can quite decide which), it’s the pelicans and flamingos which often steal the show.
However, binoculars in hand, there’s also a good chance of seeing various waders.
To take full advantage of the migrating populations of birds, including aquatic warblers, you’ll want to head here in November.
Given it’s water that dominates the landscape, the best way of getting around is by pirogue (wooden canoe).
Trips are easy to organise via the park’s main hotels.
The best 9 things to do in Senegal
Even without your own transport Senegal is one of the easiest countries in Africa to get around. That means there’s really no reason to miss the best 9 things to do in Senegal. That’s especially true since they range so broadly from historic sites to natural wonders, museums to cultural attractions.
