Is Guinea-Bissau safe to visit?

Last updated May 23rd, 2023.

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Why ask if Guinea-Bissau is safe to visit? Here’s why. Check out images of Guinea-Bissau’s beaches, and you’ll be booking flights. Read up on its recent political history, and you’ll probably be rushing to cancel them.

But for the hardened or adventurous traveller (you do need to fall into one of these two groups), Guinea-Bissau is one of the few countries in the world that can be considered on the edge of what’s possible.

With a bit of effort and a little patience, Guinea-Bissau offers unique west African holidays. There are tropical beaches to enjoy and hippos to look out for. And that’s just to start.

Introducing Guinea-Bissau

Tiny Guinea-Bissau sits tucked between the west African nations of Senegal to the north and plain old Guinea to the south and east.

It’s west, ruffled into a series of fjord-like inlets, faces out towards the Atlantic Ocean, and is near-pristine, meaning few roads, even fewer hotels, yet ample habitat for wildlife.

It is named in part after its equally tiny capital, Bissau City. This distinguishes it from its larger neighbour, Guinea, which was once part of France’s African empire.

Instead, Guinea-Bissau is Portuguese-speaking. As a result, it can be a difficult place to visit for those who don’t speak the language, like me. Knowing Spanish or Italian (which I don’t) can be a help, as English-speakers are difficult to come by.

How did I survive without speaking Portuguese in Guinea-Bissau? A mix of guessing, bluffing, and hand signals.

Is Guinea-Bissau safe for travellers?

The people of Guinea-Bissau are some of the poorest in the world. This is largely down to the fact the country has been politically unstable since independence from Portugal in 1974. Only one of its presidents has served a full five-year term in office.

Controlled by a communist-leaning government for its first ten years, it then suffered a short civil war between 1998 and 1999.

It has endured several military coups both before and since, and would surely do well to go the way of Costa Rica and disband its military entirely.

That said, the army and police are one of the only employment opportunities. All my interactions with uniformed personnel were friendly and positive ones, welcoming a visitor to a country which receives almost no tourists.

Corruption is undoubtedly high (although I experienced none). The country is also a gateway for south American cocaine on its way to Europe via the country’s unpoliced waterways. This can lead to some suspicion of travellers to the region.

Getting around Guinea-Bissau

Its lack of tourists means good hotels are thin on the ground. International-grade hotels are largely limited to the grid of streets leading to Bissau City’s port.

Elsewhere, accommodation is basic. Bathrooms tend to be shared, and are generally limited to bucket showers. If there’s electricity at all, it will likely be through bare lightbulbs powered by a generator for a few hours over night. Don’t expect there to be power-hungry air conditioning.

Guinea-Bissau’s roads are generally dreadful. Largely unsurfaced, they rapidly turn to slush during the rains of June to October. Two metres of rain are recorded annually, falling almost entirely during this period.

Already few and far between in any case, their condition all but prevents travel by road during these months. They then take several months to dry to a usable level, limiting travel to the country to December to May.

What to see and do

Things are on the up in Guinea-Bissau – though slowly and from a very low basepoint. This is perhaps best demonstrated by the new presidential palace in the capital, which was an abandoned wreck less than a decade ago.

Bissau City has a fantastic atmosphere that reminded me of its former colonial master. Families sit out on front stoops come nightfall as children play football on quiet side streets.

A handful of worthy landmarks include the old Portuguese fort, Fortaleza de São José da Amura. Dating back to the 1700s, it contains the mausoleum of independence hero Amilcar Cabral. Its surrounds are also smattered with a handful of trinket stalls, some of the only places to find souvenirs in the country.

Wildlife in Guinea-Bissau

The entire coast is an excellent destination for birders. Savannah grasses and mangrove forest are an attractive stopover for birds making their way between Europe and southern Africa.

Larger mammal species, including hippos and chimpanzees, can be seen in the country’s fledgling protected areas. Parque Natural das Lagoas de Cufada is thought to be home to both, as well as leopard and hyena. The use of ‘thought’ in the previous sentence demonstrates just how fledgling wildlife tours in the region are.

Instead, the country’s main draw must be the Bijagos archipelago. Its stunning palm-lined beaches mean you’ll soon forget any difficulties you had in reaching them.

Organising a trip to any of these destinations from outside of Guinea-Bissau remains tricky. The tour companies that exist have little presence online. However, with a few days notice, they can usually put together the tour you’re looking for.

Expat forums are the best source of reliable (and English-speaking) guide services. Even so, you shouldn’t expect an east African style safari experience.

Guide to Guinea-Bissau

Guinea-Bissau may not cross many people’s radars, but that can play into the hands of anyone looking for an authentic west African getaway. Unique in so many ways, give the country enough time, and you’ll soon find it getting under your skin. That’s why I created this short guide to whether Guinea-Bissau is safe to visit.