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Category Archives: Mozambique

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Visiting Lourenco

  January 19, 2013 Africa, history, Mozambique

Up until 1975 Lourenço Marques was the largest city in Mozambique. Almost overnight it disappeared from the maps of the region. Its disappearance wasn’t the result of war or pestilence, but that of a name change. As Maputo, the city remains the largest in the country, the capital, and home … Continue reading

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To Tanzania, at last

  April 27, 2012 Africa, border, Encircle Africa, Mozambique, Tanzania

Dhow to Kilwa Kisiwani In Mocimboa the sky was cloudless, the sun burning at 9am. Perhaps a reminder I’m slowly creeping back towards the equator. The knock for transport to the frontiera comes at 2.20am. I wasn’t really sleeping anyway. As one of the first to board I’m given a … Continue reading

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Towards the coastal peoples

  April 23, 2012 Africa, Encircle Africa, Mozambique

In the morning half-wakefulness the gubb gubb gubb of the turkeys outside my room sounded like ‘up up up’, meaning ‘north! north! north!’. I head north from Pemba to Quissanga, the next town along the coast. Within a couple of minutes of walking I can see that Quissanga is exactly … Continue reading

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Edging neara the fronteira

  April 17, 2012 Africa, border, Encircle Africa, Mozambique

Tumbledown island Nampula is not coastal. It is a relatively large town, meaning running water, proper sugared ring doughnuts, and onward connections to Mozambique Island. A large minibus (capacity around 25, today’s capacity about 35) is almost ready to depart, for the morning’s journey. The poverty of the island – … Continue reading

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Up and down the road

  April 12, 2012 Africa, Encircle Africa, Mozambique

The tar runs into smooth-ish orange clay that’s just beginning to become crennalated not soon after Mocuba. The sun tries to break through the clouds-cum-mist over the vast green of Mozambique in the rains that can’t have changed much in hundreds of years save for the mobile phone masts. We … Continue reading

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The Mosquito Coast

  April 6, 2012 Africa, Encircle Africa, Mozambique

The unchanged face of Mozambique’s countryside For long distance transport from Imhassoro I’m told I must first go to Maluwane 15km away, less of a town worthy of a name, more of a T junction on the road. At the felled tree trunk that serves as a waiting room I … Continue reading

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Big country, long distances

  April 4, 2012 Africa, Encircle Africa, Mozambique

The Imhambane-Maxixe ferry. The key to speaking Portuguese is your best Sean Connery impersonation. The tent had to be packed away for 5.30 am and the bus to Imhambane. We see much less of the coast then I imagined we would, but when we do its spectacular. Verdant islands just … Continue reading

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Portuguese East Africa

  March 29, 2012 Africa, border, Encircle Africa, Mozambique, South Africa

Mbazwana is heaving when I leave the hotel at 9am: long Monday queues for cash machines, food-laden people pouring out of the supermarket, market stalls set up, the sellers busy attracting buyers. Its much easier then I imagined to get towards the South African border post at Kosi Bay. After … Continue reading

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